Sebato De Sarno is continuing to put his stamp on the house of Gucci in the shade of ‘509 Rosso Ancora’ (or, Ancora Red). Since taking the helm of the brand in 2023, presenting his first collection during Milan Fashion Week in September of that year, De Sarno has used the colour throughout his work; the hue is taken from the wall of an elevator in the Savoy Hotel, where Guccio Gucci worked as a porter in the late 1800s, inspiring him to create the luggage line that began a dynasty of Italian fashion.
It was this very history that drew De Sarno to London, for Gucci’s Cruise 2025 show, which took place at the Tate Modern this week (13 May 2024), and where models wore the first product he designed for Gucci Beauty: a matte lipstick pigmented with the deep, rich burgundy-tinged red of Rosso Ancora.
The show’s make-up was keyed by Lucia Pieroni, who worked with fresh and natural skin that complimented Duffy’s undone and effortless hair, to ensure that the lipstick took front an centre on the models who were chosen to wear it.
The effect was that it almost felt like an accessory in itself, akin to the oversized suede bags with GG monograms, ballet pumps, and sunglasses with tinted lenses, when paired with looks that celebrated Ancora Red, head-to-toe.
Said to provide a ‘creamy, long-lasting matte finish’, the lipstick is formulated with hydrating oils and gelling waxes to ensure a soft feel and velvety texture. Of course, the packaging is also Ancora Red, a reinterpretation of Gucci Beauty’s ribbed, gold-toned tubes.
Currently, Rouge à Lèvres Mat in Rosso Ancora is available in the US and online in the UK at gucci.com. It will be in Harrods from 1 July 2024.
