There was a rallying cry among editors internationally this fashion month: enough with the catwalk gimmicks, please!
After Bella Hadid’s spray-painted Coperni dress broke the internet last season, every brand seemed hankering for an OTT bite. Models walked off wearing the tablecloths at (di)vision in Copenhagen, dresses blasted water at Susan Fang in London; and Paris’s Coperni attempted to recreate their thunder with robot-dogs undressing models on the catwalk.
During the AW23 collections these showboats fell on unfazed eyes. Heads instead turned to the decidedly more drab, showcasing a slew of beige and grey on the runway. The muted trend trickled off the catwalk, too, with the style set opting for floor skimming, camel cashmere overcoats, paired with vintage, stone-shade Celine bags. It is official: fashion has entered its greigecore era.
Model and front row fixture Betty Bachz attests to this month’s humble shift. “After a season of unhinged viral moments, Barbiecore and loud colours, the return to muted monochrome dressing was inevitable. The laws of physics wills it, with every action there must be an equal and opposite reaction,” she says. “Greige feels put-together, sophisticated and contemporary — quintessentially Scandinavian.”
Some designers were outspoken in their decision making. Gabriela Hearst, whose latest Chloé collection was rooted in earthy cream, black and brown shearlings and leather, told reporters backstage: “I like it that nothing is gimmicky.” Adding, “they’re not clothes for Instagram. I’m tired of working for Zuckerberg all the time — like, where’s my cheque?”
At Balenciaga, following controversy in December around child models in a campaign, designer Demna kept it simple, stripping his show way back. “Fashion has become a kind of entertainment, but that often overshadows the essence of it,” read his show notes. By choice or obligation, a restrained collection of his recognisable, pointed shoulder silhouettes was punctuated by sand and silver draped gowns, and chevron-sheared caramel trenches.
Meanwhile, at London-label ASAI, best known for fluro-panelled sheer tops, came a shift to the tea stained and muted. “It is to be humble, against the show of wealth and vulgarity in a time of crisis,” designer A Sai Ta says. “The colours propose a feeling of the wholesome, the calm, a moment of beauty in decay — minimal fashion has a deeper history.”
In recent years, greige’s seduction of luxury fashion dates back to Phoebe Philo; namely her 2008-2017 tenure at Celine. There, clinically cut raw wools, felts and supple leathers cultivated a ravenous appetite for the basics. As if summoned, the enigmatic designer is set to return with her own label this year — die-hard fans will be hoping, simply, for more of the same.
“Beige, grey and greige are all foundational shades that feel grounding, they also have a timeless quality that offers trans seasonal appeal which will align with consumers looking for colours with long-term appeal,” says Clare Smith, colour strategist at trend forecaster WGSN. “These colours reflect the need for balance, slowing down and reflect the pursuit of ‘just enough’.” Labels who have built their name on minimalism are enjoying a renaissance, from Max Mara, Armani and The Row, who all produced monochrome, ochre toned collections, while Bottega Veneta and Miu Miu leant heavily into the trend. The latter’s PFW closing show was almost a beige-out, closed by none other than Emma Corrin in a fawn-shade polo neck, and sequinned knickers.
“These shades are very chic and elevated in feeling — in reality it’s a very easy way for men and women to dress, as all effortlessly works together,” says Natalie Kingham, fashion consultant and former buying director at Matches Fashion. “The colours can feel comforting and soft when times can indeed be tough.” It is a fad (at last) made for everyday shoppers, too. The best minimal looks on the high street are easy to find: COS, The Frankie Shop and Arket should be first ports of call.
“I think head to toe greige can work, but as a starting point to the trend, try a trench coat or jacket with a matching sweater,” says Kingham. “Textures are a must so silk and brushed fabrics stop it all looking bland.”
