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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Ellie Ross

Go north: seven reasons to consider Norway and Sweden for your next ski holiday

Cozy wooden cabin under snow in the mountains during winter.
Hemsedal is Norway’s second-largest ski area and is home to stunning scenery. Photograph: JLK/Alamy

When you’re planning your next ski adventure, look north to Norway and Sweden. These Scandinavian countries not only benefit from impeccable snow conditions but also feature natural untapped beauty that can be explored both day and night. And with more than 170 ski resorts in Norway and over 250 in Sweden – including the big players Trysil and Åre – there’s plenty of choice.

1 The excellent snow quality
Resorts in the Alps may offer skiing at altitudes above 3,000m – compared with Norway’s highest lift at 2,200m (at Galdhøpiggen) and Sweden’s 1,274m (in Åre) – but when you’re this far north, altitude isn’t an issue when it comes to snow coverage. Sitting at a higher latitude than the Alps, Norway and Sweden tend to have a longer ski season. Snow falls as early as October, and lasts until April or even May. Inland destinations, including Trysil, Åre and Salen, offer reliable snow even in early and late season.

Another perk of Norwegian and Swedish skiing is the snow texture. Dry, cold air means less likelihood of snow melting and refreezing, changes that lead to icy slopes or slush. Instead, the colder climate provides dreamy conditions – whether you’re carving down groomed slopes or exploring off-piste terrain. Skiing or snowboarding through light, fluffy flakes, you understand why snow here is described as “champagne powder”!

2 You’re treated to unspoilt scenery
It’s not only the quantity of snow that makes skiing in Norway and Sweden special – it’s the beauty of the landscape. There’s less infrastructure than in the Alps, so the setting appears blissfully unblemished. Near Norway’s coast, fjords streak through the mountains, while in Sweden’s Jӓmtland region, Åre is strung out along a frozen lake. Hemsedal, Norway’s second-largest ski area, is set in an area called the Scandinavian Alps due to its snow-covered peaks and dramatic cliffs.

Cross-country ski touring is an excellent way to slow down and get up close to the fragrant pines and birch trees hanging heavy with snow. But downhill skiers can also appreciate the immense views as they cruise down from the summits. In Norway and Sweden, it’s not unusual to ski while glimpsing reindeer, their coffee-and-cream fur standing out against the snowy backdrop.

3 Resorts are uncrowded
Ski resorts in Norway and Sweden are typically less crowded than those in the Alps. In the 2020/21 winter season, the most popular skiing destination was the Alps, with about 40% of skiers heading to the mountain range. While France sees up to 55 million ski visitors in a season, Norway and Sweden each typically see around 8 million ski visitors [pdf].

The result of fewer crowds is that you spend less time queueing for lifts and more time actually skiing. Once you’re gliding downhill, it can feel like you’ve got the entire mountain to yourself. Savour the space – it’s a more peaceful and relaxing experience. With crowd-free slopes, it’s also possible to find untouched powder even days after the snow has fallen.

4 Night skiing extends time on the slopes
After the sun has slipped beneath the peaks and the après drinks are being served, skiers in Norway and Sweden can get a few more runs under their belt with a spot of night skiing. Gliding down a mountain – whether by skis, snowboard or sledge – beneath the stars after the day trippers have gone home is a thrilling experience, whatever level you are.

Many resorts offer night skiing, with floodlights keeping the slopes illuminated after dark – and in midwinter, sunset comes early. In Trysil, night skiing kicks off about 4.30pm, with six pistes lit up until 8pm three days a week. Meanwhile, across the border in Åre, you can ski until 10pm, choosing from easy, intermediate and advanced slopes or even the snow park. The Swedish resort of Sälen also offers night skiing, with three miles of floodlit runs in both Tandådalen and Hundfjället, including options for beginners and children.

5 Catching the northern lights
It’s the greatest show on Earth – and seeing the aurora borealis dance in the sky might just be the cherry on top of a ski trip to Norway or Sweden. The northern lights are a mind-bending phenomenon, named after the Roman goddess of dawn (Aurora) the Greek god of the north wind (Boreas). The reindeer-herding Sami people of Norway and Sweden believe the lights are the souls of their ancestors.

The odds of glimpsing the aurora are higher the farther north you go, where nights are darker and the aurora season is longer. Norway and Sweden are located in the auroral zone, with September to March being prime-time northern lights viewing. There are tips if you know where to look; in Åre, for example, local aurora enthusiasts give a heads-up of activity and locations via a Facebook page. And while you’re unlikely to see the lights while swooshing downhill on your skis, you may well catch them shimmering overhead outside or from your hotel room. Sightings can never be guaranteed, so it’s best to see the lights as a bonus to your ski trip rather than focusing on them.

6 There’s a family-friendly atmosphere
For families, Norway and Sweden are well set up. Sälen – a set of four interconnected resorts – is superb for beginners and families with a wide variety of easy slopes and fun activities for children. Åre also caters to families, with childcare options, ski school and snow parks for little ones. Youngsters will love meeting a family of bears (not real ones!) in a fairytale forest at Åre Björnen, for example. The Norwegian resort of Hemsedal features high-quality ski schools and a children’s zone with its own ski lift and family-friendly activities. You’ll also find accommodation right on the slopes, which is convenient for families and perfect for little legs.

7 A wide range of non-ski activities
On rest days, or for those not choosing to ski, Norway and Sweden have another advantage: the wide array of winter activities on offer. You could skim through the trees by dog sled in Stöten, horse-drawn sleigh or snowmobile, or try ice skating on a frozen lake. Or how about strapping on some snowshoes in Trysil and setting off through the frozen landscape, traversing swathes of untouched snow? Saunas and hot tubs are a way of life in Scandinavia, and soaking in the warm waters while surrounded by snowy vistas is a memorable way to end the day.

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