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Nottingham Post
Nottingham Post
Entertainment
Lynette Pinchess

Glamour, great food and friendly service but Nottingham restaurant left us cold

It's just over three years since Cosy Club opened in Nottingham, taking over an iconic property that had been closed for more than a decade. One of the city's most treasured buildings, there's no other restaurant locally quite like it.

The sweeping staircase is an impressive feature as soon as you walk through the door of the majestic Victorian premises in Victoria Street. It leads to the restaurant which oozes old-school glamour with sparkling chandeliers hanging from the high ceiling, plush red upholstery, mahogany chairs, golden friezes and ornate pillars.

It's not my first visit - I've been several times, so you could say it's one of my favourite spots. On this particular occasion it's my day off so I'm a lady who lunches, joining friends, who collectively make up the Three Blondes' Lunch Club.

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It's a big dining room, 90 seats no less, and although it's not full, it's not empty either. Soon a smiley waitress appears to take the drinks order. She returns with a jug of water for the vintage style crystal glasses. Like I said before, it's proper old-school elegance.

A red wine, soda water and Ginger Cooler swiftly follow. The latter is mine - it's a long sparkling drink with a spices shot which makes it really fiery and perky - just the ticket. While we're catching up about family and work, it creeps into the conversation how chilly it is. To set the benchmark I'm not one of those nesh folk. Usually I'm the one complaining that it's too hot.

The 90-seater restaurant (Nottingham Post)

One of my pals is still wearing her scarf. After all it's Cosy Club and sadly, cosy it is not. She mentions it to a member of staff, who returns to say he can't bring a heater over but he'll check the thermostat. I don't know if any of you have noticed how some pubs and restaurants are cooler these days, some bordering on cold. I've walked into a pub when it's icy cold outside and instead of being greeted by a welcoming warmth, I've sat there with my coat on.

It's understandable with energy bills rocketing but there's a fine line between saving money and the possibility that customers who aren't comfortable might not return. it's a sad and frustrating sign on the times.

Lunch arrives. The menu is vast - from brunch and burgers to sandwiches, small plates and steaks. We've all gone for one of the mains. Two of us opt for fish cakes and one for the chestnut mushroom risotto off the vegan menu.

The two fishcakes are big fat ones, packed with salmon and potato enveloped in crispy golden breadcrumbs on the outside. The rest is like an Eggs Florentine, but with fishcakes instead of muffins.

The poached egg is spot on with a perfect runny yolk as the knife cuts through. It's drizzled with creamy hollandaise sauce and the fishcakes sit on a bed of wilted spinach. The plate isn't short on greens; a rocket garnish tops it off, while cider and mustard leeks give it a tangy twist. They are the tastiest veg on the plate and I wouldn't have minded more.

I'd contemplated ordering a side of fries but as I clear my plate I'm pleased I didn't as I am sufficiently full. Service is pleasant and efficient throughout. The only downside was the temperature in the room. It won't stop me from returning - but I'll be wearing a thicker jumper.

Prices

Ginger cooler £4.40

250ml glass organic Tempranillo red wine £7

Glass of soda water 45p

Fishcakes £14.50

Mushroom risotto £12.75

Hygiene rating: 5

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