At Paris Fashion Week, it's been a season filled with debuts — from Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford, Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten, and this morning, Sarah Burton at Givenchy.
She stepped down as creative director at Alexander McQueen in September 2023, after working at the brand for 26 years. The Macclesfield-born designer joined the brand on a placement year in 1996, and was tasked with taking over after founder Lee McQueen's tragic death in 2010.
She was appointed creative director of Givenchy, a position also held by McQueen from 1996-2001, last September. It's safe to say that this show was one of the most anticipated on the Paris Fashion Week schedule.
The first look on the runway was a fishnet bodysuit with white text emblazoned across the chest reading: "Givenchy Paris 1952". Hubert de Givenchy’s first show was in 1952, when he was just 25 years old. But this was not a collection filled with reinterpreted classics. “To go forward, you have to go back to the beginning. To me, that’s about the atelier. It’s the heart and soul of Givenchy,” said Burton in a statement ahead of the show.
Raye, Rooney Mara, Gwendoline Christie, Vanessa Kirby and Joseph Quinn were all in attendance.
The collection was largely monochromatic, save for flashes of pastel yellow and baby pink which featured on high-necked satin bodysuits, tailored overcoats and tulle, full skirted mini dresses.
Tailoring was given a feminine twist, with voluminous puff sleeves and nipped in waists. Chunky herringbone suits were shown alongside slate grey and dark black versions, with some blazers being worn back to front or featuring deep, slit back details, as modelled by Eva Herzigová.
Flat loafers and ballet pumps were balanced with heeled vinyl boots, and large visor sunglasses and giant leather scarves also stood out as styling details.
Oversized gem earrings and bracelet cuffs packed a punch, and one top was constructed entirely from various coloured, glinting stones, for a daring yet delicately feminine look. A sculpted mini dress was also covered in compact mirrors, which had guests swiftly reaching for their iPhones.
Raw hem silk dresses and floral embroidery also featured, alongside tougher pieces like a leather biker jacket dress.
The balance between hard and soft is something Burton was so beloved for throughout her time at McQueen. She may have leaned on the latter more than her founder, but as one of the very few women in top creative roles, she designs with the body, silhouette and comfort in mind. All of that was on display today at Givenchy — she received a standing ovation at the end of the show when she came out to take her bow.
