Bengaluru, the vivacious metropolis, a city of myriad flavours, where cultures intermingle and palates intersect, is a gastronome’s utopia. From the rarefied Korean BBQ to the blazing Chettinad curries, Bengaluru is a crucible of cuisines. Yet, in the midst of this cosmopolitan epicurean landscape, one can’t but muse — where art thou, authentic Karnataka cuisine?
Alas! The land of Udupi hotels and Mysore Pak, where ghee podi idlis are synonymous with breakfast, and ragi mudde is a staple, has been reduced to a mere footnote in Bengaluru’s culinary story. Despite the multitude of eateries and pubs that have mushroomed, offering a panoply of cuisines from New York to Cambodia, a decent Karnataka food place is hard to come by.
Sure, there are plenty of military hotels and jolad roti places scattered around the city, but the true taste of Karnataka’s home-style cooking has eluded the foodies of Bengaluru.
Malgudi Mylari Mane aims to fill this gap by offering a taste of authentic home-style Karnataka recipes served in regions around the Cauvery River. With its humble beginnings on the Bengaluru-Mangaluru Highway, back in 2020, the restaurant has quickly become a must-visit for anyone who craves authentic Karnataka food. Despite the pandemic, the brand innovated and took pre-orders for weekend deliveries in the city, giving people a taste of their mutton pulav, mutton chops, paya and chicken kheema goju. Over the last three years, Malgudi Mylari Mane has become a destination for food lovers who enjoy traditional Karnataka cuisine.
Named after a fictional town in Agumbe, in the Shivamogga district of Karnataka, in RK Narayan’s book Malgudi Days, the restaurant’s menu is a journey through the state’s various culinary traditions. From the rich and flavourful mutton chops to the spicy chicken keema goju, every dish is a celebration of Karnataka’s diverse cuisine. And of course, the star of the show is the iconic Mylari dose, famously savoured with coconut chutney, saagu, and a dollop of butter.
Malgudi Mylari Mane does not just serve up traditional fare; they elevate it with combinations such as dose served with non-vegetarian sides and curries, something that you would not find in a traditional thindi (tiffin) place in the city. The dosas are paired with a side of paya soup and mutton chops, offering a delightful meaty start to the day.
And for those who prefer vegetarian fare, the restaurant has got you covered with t hatte idlis, akki rotti, and ghee rice served with seasonal vegetable gravies, chutneys and palyas as sides.
“The flavours of Karnataka are as diverse as its people, changing every few kilometres to reflect the region’s unique cooking styles and ingredients,” says Steven Thirumalai, partner, Malgudi Mylari Mane. From Uttara Karnataka, Dakshina Karnataka , Udupi and Kodava to , Saraswat, Mangalorean Catholic and Navayath Muslim cuisine, Karnataka’s culinary traditions are a reflection of its cultural and geographical diversity.
At the Koramanagala outlet, the culinary staff’s experience and skill are evident in the succulent mutton chops and curry, with the meat falling right off the bone. Chef Basava Raj, originally from Mysuru, leads the pack, serving a well-roasted yet soft Mylari dose.
As you sit in the restaurant, savouring the Mylari dose, it is hard not to feel a sense of wonder. The dish, once exclusive to Mysuru, has now made its way to Bengaluru, bringing with it a piece of Karnataka’s history and culture. The dose, served with coconut chutney, saagu, and a dollop of butter, takes you on a journey through the winding roads of the State, each bend revealing a new flavour, a different tradition.
It is not just the Mylari dose that captures your heart, but also the warmth and hospitality of the restaurant. Steven’s eyes light up every time he talks about regional cuisine, you can tell the former corporate, who had now made a pivot to join the restaurant business is here for good reason.
One can tell that he and his partners have poured their hearts and souls into creating a space that reflects the essence of Karnataka. The Koramangala outlet, with its blend of modern and traditional aesthetics, is a testament to this. The walls are adorned with beautiful Chittara art, painted by artists from Shivamogga, and lit by bamboo basket lights from the ceiling. The restaurant’s decor, cuisine and ambience all contribute to a feeling of being transported to a simpler time when food brought people together, and dining was a communal experience.
For dessert, there is Mysore Pak, the traditional sweet that originated in Mysuru. With its rich and buttery texture, it is a fitting finale to a gastronomic journey that traverses the kitchens of the regions bordering the Cauvery River.
