You should not judge a book by its cover, but what about butter? One of France’s most beloved daily products might not always be what it seems, after a consumer affairs and fraud watchdog revealed findings from an investigation into the composition and labelling of butter.
A total of 129 establishments in the milk fat sector across almost 30 French departments were scrutinised in a survey undertaken by the Directorate General for Competition, Consumer Affairs and Fraud Prevention.
The study, completed in 2019, with findings released at the end of 2023, found nearly a third of inspected dairy establishments had abnormal practices, while around 20 percent were non-compliant.
The directorate said the “main anomalies” by butter manufacturers, cow farms, supermarket chains, bakeries and confectioners “concerned the manufacturing process, composition and labelling of butter and fats".
Investigators found that water content is sometimes too high, affecting the quality of the product. Fifteen percent of samples taken exceeded the regulated limit.
Quality affected by shortcuts
While salt levels are not officially regulated, four samples did not contain enough salt to be labelled 'semi-salted butter' according to a professional code of practice.
The study also revealed that some farmers did not meet criteria like Protected Designation of Origin or "farmhouse" because not enough cream was sourced from farms.
Producers were also singled out for recycling butter that had been "badly packaged or turned inside out" in order to make high-quality butters, for which recycling is prohibited.
"All these factors could lead to the development of fraudulent practices," said the directorate, which issued 30 warnings at the end of its investigation.
