We can go to work in an office, but we can’t meet up with friends. We can go to the pub, but only with the people we live with.
These are bogglingly stressful times to be living in London. And such times call for a totally stress-free minibreak. Which, for now, is something we are still permitted to do., so long as it’s with a member of your own household.
And when it comes to bucolic bliss, few places can offer an easier, more comfortable and relaxing solution than the Four Seasons hotel in Hampshire.
Just over an hour’s drive from London, the vast property sits among the rolling hills of the beautiful Hampshire countryside -all thatched-roof cottages, canals and winding tree-lined lanes –and thanks to its impressive size and vast grounds, is the sort of hotel where there’s so much to do and so much space in which to relax, you needn’t leave the property for several days.
Where is it?
The hotel is situated at Dogmersfield Park, an 18th-century manor (first mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086 as Doccemere feld, “the field by the lake where the water lilies grow”) set in 500 acres of historic parkland on the site of a medieval palace once used by the Bishop of Bath and Wells.
After incarnations as a girl’s school and a home for priests, Four Seasons took over the Estate in 2005, restoring the manor and its grounds in a classic, comfortable style.
Style
The grand exterior at the front of the Manor House is part of the original Georgian home, built in 1728. In the early 1980s a fire destroyed much of the house, leaving only the façade untouched.
Inside, the décor, most of which was revamped in a multi-million pound refurbishment in 2017, is grand and luxurious, if a little generic in places.
One of the finer rooms on the ground floor is the Library, refurbished by Martin Brudnizki in 2017, which comprises an elegant and quiet series of rooms in pastel blues and greens where coffees and drinks are available from 11am onwards and an afternoon tea is served daily.
There’s also a vast and impressively elegant business centre that was renovated in 2019 and takes up one wing of the building. This hotel is definitely one that would cater brilliantly for corporate offsites and weddings, both of which it hosts regularly.
There are 133 guestrooms including 22 suites. We stayed in a Garden Twin, which was comfortable and spacious, if a little corporate in feel- think glass-topped mahogany surfaces, minimal art and a telephone that looked like it was from the 80s. The beds however were fantastically comfortable, due to the signature Four Seasons mega mattresses, which are so cloud-like you really never want to wake up in the morning. The lovely marble bathroom came with Asprey miniatures and his and hers sinks.
The enormity of the hotel is evidenced by the fact there’s a floorplan on the hotel website – you might want to print it out in case you lost your bearings. We genuinely got lost on the way back from the spa to our room.
Facilities
The 27,000-square-foot pool and spa area is set in an adjoining ground floor wing of the vast building, once the 18th century stable block. Large oak-panelled changing areas lead through to the light and airy 20-metre indoor lap pool that’s covered by a conservatory roof and connected to a heated outdoor vitality pool, where you can be soothed by jets of bubbles after a sauna or steam. While spacious, the pool area is aesthetically more akin to an upmarket leisure centre than a five star hotel, although supremely clean and comfortable throughout.
The Sharkie’s Reef adventure pool area – located in a separate room ensuring the main pool remains Zen - is child heaven, complete with a four-metre slide, rotating umbrella fountain and bubble jets. On school holidays they run special programmes there, from Junior Boot Camp to mocktail-making and manicures.
The large spa uses Neom and Natura Bisse in its 15 treatment rooms. My deep tissue massage with Szabi was one of the best – and most painful in a good way – of my life.
Extracurricular
In addition to strolling about the stunning 18th century walled garden – complete with original Dovecote – hotel staff can provide maps for different length walking trails around the extraordinarily beautiful hotel grounds. From manicured fields to charming lakes home to hundreds of interesting birds, this is the sort of picture perfect countryside us Londoners dream of.
For anyone remotely interested in horses, the Equestrian Centre is an absolute must-do. Located in the old dairy a five minute stroll from the main property, the immaculate and stylish building (which feels more like a five star hotel than any stables I have ever visited before) caters solely to hotel guests (aged over four) and is home to a host of happy, healthy horses. Whether you’re a total beginner looking for a 30 minute stroll on a lead (£80), or an experienced rider looking for an hour-long hack (£120), the professional, cheery staff on hand at the school make the entire experience an absolute pleasure.
For those looking for country sports, the hotel can also organise fishing, falconry and clay pigeon shooting. There’s also bird watching and croquet, and tennis lessons on the two floodlit outdoor courts.
Should you wish to venture further afield, Highclere Castle, better known to millions around the world as Downton Abbey, is just a short drive away.
Food & Drink
The 150-seater Wild Carrot restaurant serves modern British cuisine under executive chef Paolo Belloni. The space was designed by Martin Brudnizki in 2017 although it has more of a relaxed Soho House-type feel than the OTT Annabel’s fabulousness for which the designer is known.
The generously portioned food is generally excellent, with the British twist on cacio pepe made with local cheddar a real highlight.
Place all your trust in Sicilian sommelier Sandro, who is not only delightful company but a master at recommending interesting Italian wines you have never heard of, but end up taking pictures of to buy once you’re home.
Which room?
The Oliver King Parlour Suite, William Godson and Ellis St John suites are worth the extra spend for the views out over the estate and over the Hampshire hills.
When we visited they had just begun a massive refurbishment project to redo all the rooms and suites (bar the Royal Suite), set to be completed Easter 2021. From the pictures I saw, these will be infinitely more stylish and well worth the wait.
Best for
From supervised pony rides, a large adventure playground and appealing children’s menus to the special games room and themed dinners during the school holidays, this place is an absolute paradise for kids. The extensive grounds and friendly staff make it the sort of place where they’re safe to run around exploring on their own while you have a coffee in the library and read the papers.
It’s also a great place for outdoorsy couples craving an activity-filled weekend away from the city.
Price
An entry level Mews Room starts at £360 per night, not including breakfast.
Getting there
Depending on when you jump in the car, the drive will take between 1 hour and 1 hour 50 minutes. We did it on a Friday night and were pleasantly surprised to get there in an hour and ten minutes.
From London it’s also easy by train, with a direct line to Winchfield station, which is a 15-minute (£20) taxi ride away.
