Food critic Jay Rayner has penned a glowing review of a newly opened Manc restaurant. Climat, located in a ‘shadowed street’ on Deansgate and eight floors high, was described as ‘the right place’ for those looking for ‘food you want to eat’, the Observer reviewer wrote.
Whilst the entrance to the restaurant may bring the words ‘blunt’ and ‘austere’ to mind, those lucky enough to dine there shouldn’t worry, as it is ‘every kind of hot', he said.
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“The view recalls the touching illustrations from Maurice Sendak’s In the Night Kitchen, the outcrops of Victorian grandeur sitting shoulder to shoulder with the shinier modern blocks and their golden-lit squares of window, silhouetted against the ink-black sky,” he writes.
“Now look down at the menu, and clock that you’ve come to the right place.”
He added that it was ‘hard not to fall in adult love’ with the menu including hash brown topped with ‘whorls’ of taramasalata’ and a vol-au-vent filled with lamb keema.
Back in December, M.E.N. reporter Ben Arnold ventured to Climat a few weeks after it had opened. In agreement, he found the experience relaxed, confident and impressive.
Speaking of the food, Rayner started off with slices of focaccia, ‘bathing in ponds of the best olive oil’. He then moved onto the vol-au-vent, describing it as a ‘70s classic which has grown up and learned a few things about the world’.
“Follow that with a golden block of their hash browns, the crisp, textured exterior giving way to a maternal softness, with a back note of dill. Use it as a vehicle for their creamy take on tarama,” he wrote.
As he works his way down the list, he enjoyed many dishes including roasted aubergine, dressed with tahini and topped with shredded radicchio.
He added that there is much he wished to try, including braised carrots with whipped feta and hazelnut pesto, or the hake with barbecued leek, or the brill with seaweed hollandaise.
Concluding the glowing review, he said: “It is indeed a massive undertaking, but one which is also a raging success. Many in Manchester seem delighted by the arrival of a terrific restaurant serving food you really want to eat. Just don’t be put off by the front door.”
Climat is run by the team behind Covino in Chester. It can be found at Climat, 8th Floor, Blackfriars House, St Marys Parsonage, Manchester M3 2JA.
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