This week, London was crowned “wine capital of the world”. It’s worth noting, perhaps, that this shiny new title comes from the annual Knight Frank Wealth Report, and is based on how many restaurants serve fine wines from the world’s top 250 wine and champagne houses. If this is what matters to you when looking at a wine list, this would put London’s wine offering ahead of New York, and even Paris.
The Guardian’s wine expert Hannah Crosbie lists a few old and new wine bars that you can walk into and order a bottle anytime. You don’t have to be rich to drink here (but I’m sure it helps).
Noble Rot Mayfair: the new reliable
Here’s a fun game if you’re on a first date with someone who likes wine: ask them to rank the three Noble Rot restaurants. For me, Noble Rot Mayfair sits firmly at the top. Their 50-page wine list rests sweetly on the border that lies between the traditional and natural. In essence, wines that honour the environment, but lean on faithful expressions of the land they hail from. And, if you’re a fan of mature, rarer wines, they work with The Wine Society for a special reserve list– one amassed from a reserve built up over their 150 years operating at a member-owned retailer.
The 10 Cases: the old reliable
Loved by wine industry professionals for many reasons. Here are just a few: It’s in the fabulously central Covent Garden. Their Franco-European food is seriously good. In summer, the pavement at its front is packed with rattan chairs. And, as its name suggests, they will only order 10 cases of any wine, meaning their list constantly changes – making it a good one to follow if you want to keep a finger on the pulse of London’s evolving tastes.
Goodbye Horses: the east London wine bar
The natural wine bar has become pretty synonymous with east London life. Every month, I see a new one opening and I think the bubble will burst. Every month I’m proved wrong. Goodbye Horses opened only in August, but has already cemented itself as both a destination wine bar and a favourite among De Beauvoir locals. It believes a wine list should be “as close to zero-zero as possible” – nothing added, nothing taken away. The interiors are impeccably designed, with a custom-made oak bar, delightful music and beguiling painted curtains.
The Camberwell Arms: the wine pub
I am forever jealous of every person who lives in Camberwell: they get to live near The Camberwell Arms. It’s now been a decade since the Victorian pub was refurbished by chef-director Mike Davies. Obviously, people come here for the food – you can find day boat fish, delica squash and their adored scotch bonnet pork fat on toast on the current menu – but you can also nip in for a quick drink. Their classic but playful wine list fits neatly on to a piece of A4 paper. A great example of how great wine is even being enjoyed in a pub setting. The front gets good sun in the summer months.
Half Cut Market: the natural wine restaurant
If you’ve been trying (and failing) to get a table at Tomos Parry’s revered Mountain, take the road north to Half Cut Market. Their wine offering is curated by Mountain’s wine manager, Holly Willcocks. Because wine importers love her, Half Cut punches way above its allocation for a wee restaurant on York Way. Ask for the special allocated stuff that’s off-list for hand sale. The food is jubilant, and their skewer sessions (a skewer, flatbread, salad and glass of wine for £18) runs every Tuesday and Wednesday.
