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Eve Rowlands

First review of Fowl and Fury's Cardiff restaurant: 'I could just about handle the mildest chicken, but I'll definitely be back'

I'm a complete and utter wimp when it comes to spice. I can just about handle Nandos' mango and lime seasoning at best and chilli heatwave Dorritos cause an inferno in my mouth.

But after celebrated pop-up Fowl and Fury - where the spicy dishes have had customers' brows exuding waterfalls of sweat - opened its permanent Cardiff shop after trading from Richmond Road's street food joint Sticky Fingers, this hot chicken virgin was intrigued to visit the restaurant and see how she'd fare. See a previous attempt of ours here.

Run by Jamie Rees and his wife Natalia - more on their story here - we visited on a slow and stiffllingly hot Sunday afternoon during the UK's most dramatic heatwave for years about half an hour after the restaurant opened for the day.

Read more: The Pelican in Ogmore review: What it's really like eating at the old coastal inn that's just reopened as a gastro pub

There was a queue out the door on their opening day for their special Sando deal (Fowl and Fury / Jamie Rees)

The shop itself stands out from those around it with its dramatic black and red signage and we were immediately greeted by one of the four workers behind the bar, offering a bright smile.

Starting off with some light small talk about the elephant in the room - the heatwave - we got on to ordering. After seeing many pictures on Fowl and Fury's social media of the chicken sandos - essentially a take on a fried chicken burger - I was keen to try one. And at £9, it's not breaking the bank.

My dining partner had his eye on that too, but being a part-time vegetarian he opted for the vegan cauli' sando (£7.50) - which is made with a cauliflower steak instead of chicken.

Choosing our heat level was next. We were asked if we'd had Fowl and Fury food before and when we admitted it was our first time, we were politely recommended not to attempt going above 'mild' on first go: start at 'mild' and work your way up, was the advice.

Their menu is small but packs a punch and has vegetarian and vegan options (Eve Rowlands)

There are six spice levels in total: country, x-mild, mild, medium, hot and finally fury - which I was told is even sometimes a challenge for hardcore spice lovers. Those few people, I imagine, have an unhuman spice tolerance for whom a tindaloo curry is like eating a Mini Milk ice lolly - hats off to them.

Needless to say, I played it safe and went for 'x-mild' while my companion went one step above me and opted for 'mild'. Our sides were the Nashville fries (another recommendation at £3.50) and the garlic toast for £1.

As for drinks, there were the standard soft drinks alongside water and iced teas, but what caught my attention was root beer. Having only ever seen it on American TV shows and films, I was intrigued as to what it would taste like.

This grew when our server described its taste as similar - in a weird way - to mouthwash. Yes, mouthwash. Refreshing and strangely enjoyable to drink: I was sold. We also opted for a 7UP in mojito-flavour.

Root beer and 7UP are among some of the drinks on offer (Eve Rowlands)

We were handed our cans - there were no glasses, apparently - and took a pew on one of the four tables in the building, relaxing into the chilled out atmosphere which had rock and pop tunes playing in the background.

She wasn't wrong with the mouthwash flavour. But it's not offensive, toothpastey or medicinal. It's aniseed-like, oddly addictive and really quite nice. The 7UP was zingy with the mintiness of a mojito.

It was a good time for us to visit the restaurant as having just opened for the day, and with it being in the middle of a heatwave, it was virtually empty. As time went on, it gradually filled up.

The decor is minimalist and classy and stays true to the red and black colour scheme (Eve Rowlands)
The dining area is cool and classy (Eve Rowlands)

The space is small and cosy, its colour-scheme mirroring its decor - black walls with red posters and signs - yet it was cool, in both temperature and sentiment. It was made even cooler (in temp) by a mini fan which the owner, Jamie, had put on an adjacent table for us - a lovely gesture.

After about 15 minutes, our food arrived on metal, industrial plates topped with checked red and white paper - like those typical American diners you see in films like Grease.

I tried the crinkled Nashville fries first. They were well seasoned with a lovely paprika sweetness - and not too hot (temperature wise) so I was able to wolf them down almost immediately.

Inside the chicken sando (Eve Rowlands)
Fowl and Fury's Nashville fries (Eve Rowlands)
The chicken sando, complete with 'slaw, pickles and comeback sauce (Eve Rowlands)

The sando was well stacked - chicken marinated for 24 hours, US favourite comeback sauce (a mixture of sauces, including tomato and mayo), different seasonings and spices, coleslaw and pickles tucked neatly in a challah bun - but not too big that I couldn't enjoy all elements in one bite.

While well seasoned with a crispy fried coating, which had a sweet aftertaste, the chicken was lovely and tender and not overpowered by the spice. That being said, the x-mild still left a tingle on my tongue that grew with every bite - something I wasn't mad at.

The comeback sauce complimented the chicken's spice-level well, as did the 'slaw. The peppery thousand island-like sauce isn't heavy but zingy and the pickles on top give it a nice vinegar kick. If pickles aren't your thing, one poster states a fun list of the shop's 10 commandments - "Thou shall at least try a pickle before proclaiming 'I don't like pickles'".

Fowl and Fury's ten commandments (Eve Rowlands)

One thing that stands out, however, is that neither sandos are too greasy. Nor did they leave me feeling heavy and lethargic (although, maybe that's something to do with the level of spice you choose).

The cauli-sando was well-cooked and the vegetable steak melted in your mouth. The cauliflower's nutty sweetness wasn't muted and the batter's crispiness is a nice blend of textures. The mild garlicky, chilli seasoning had a bit more of a kick than my x-mild but didn't burn your tastebuds off - so next time, my dining partner is going to level up.

The 'cauli sando and garlic toast (Eve Rowlands)
Inside the 'cauli sando (Eve Rowlands)

The vegan bun wasn't as fluffy as the challah bun, but that didn't spoil it. The garlic toast, however, was the only part that was slightly underwhelming; it was bit limp being a thin slice of toast and the garlic taste wasn't all that strong.

As we left the restaurant, the tables were filling up with people waiting outside for their takeaway grub. Furious at myself for being a wimp, I decided to, on our way out, order some medium Fury Fries, that came topped with chicken tenders, to go. Not because I was still hungry, but because I wanted to at least try what I could possibly work myself up to.

Upon first bite, I felt a fire in my mouth that, while not quite hot-as-the-sun level, was a heat that caused me to immediately sink my iced water and quickly refill it only to down it again. Suffice to say, I was not ready for it yet.

Overall, it was a hearty lunch that satiated my hunger and tickled my tastebuds with just the right amount of heat and flavour - and I can see why over the last few years it has received so much praise. It was bloomin' lovely and did not disappoint. The service, too, was amazing, with the team regularly checking on us to see how we liked our food and for any feedback.

Great food, great service, great decor and great flavour. Whether you're a 'Country' -spice level or can handle a side of 'Fury', I would wholeheartedly recommend a visit.

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For more information, visit Fowl and Fury's social media

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