Back in April (2024), Diptyque invited a select group of beauty editors to Paris. The reason for our trip was kept a secret. But, as ‘hush hush’ press previews and projects from the French perfume house usually dictate, there was an inkling something special would be revealed on arrival.
Suspicions were proved right, of course, as we soon became acquainted with ‘Les Essences de Diptyque’ – perhaps the most ambitious olfactory project by the 63-year-old maison to date. This new collection of fragrances has been cleverly made using ‘synesthesia’, with five beautiful yet odourless natural phenomena imagined into perfume: ‘Corail Oscuro’, ‘Lunamaris’, ‘Bois Corsé’, Lilyphéa’ and ‘Rose Roche’, which respectively evoke Venetian coral, mother of pearl, tree bark, water lily leaves and desert rose crystal.
The natural world has a boundless influence on Diptyque. Its founders (interior designer Christiane Gautrot, painter Desmond Knox-Leet and set designer Yves Coueslant) started the brand in the early 1960s to celebrate their shared love of craft, collaboration, and travel, infusing candles and perfumes with botanical elements from all corners of the globe to Proustian effect.
Signature scent profiles include ‘Tam Dao’, a tribute to Goan sandalwood; ‘Philosykos’, the aura of Greece at the height of summer, rich with fig tree sap and black pepper; and ‘Do Son’, with tuberrose, jasmine and orange blossom stemming from Coueslant’s memories of Vietnam.
The perfumes comprising ‘Les Essences de Diptyque’ push the senses one step further. Taking in the savoury aroma of ‘Corail Oscuro’, you begin to picture spiky orange, red and pink tendrils through its salty mineral accord and notes of mandarin and rose bourbon. Or, when encountering the earthy and sweet ‘Bois Corsé’, visions of a dense woodland, just after rainfall, come to mind. Noses Fabrice Pellegrin, Alexandra Carlin and Nathalie Cetto, are the talents* behind the collection, with Nigel Peake responsible for the illustrations on each newly-designed oblong glass bottle.
*A fifth collaborator, master perfumer Olivier Pescheux, passed away last month (July 2024) after a long illness. His work on ‘Les Essences de Diptyque’ is another testament to his world-renowned talent.
First Look: how Diptyque used synaesthesia to create its poetic new perfume collection
Wallpaper*: What were your thoughts when first approached to work on this special Maison Diptyque project?
Alexandra Carlin: That it was a seamless next step in the relationship I’ve enjoyed with Maison Diptyque over the years, where I am provided a unique creative environment I feel both challenged and supported in. When I was approached to create a fragrance for the ‘Essences’ collection, I knew it would be a chance to explore new artistic ventures, whilst staying true to the brand's storied heritage.
Fabrice Pellegrin: [The brief] immediately sparked my imagination. The project’s theme of elevating nature to the status of art was incredibly inspiring – Diptyque has always been a brand that honours the artistry of nature, and being asked to contribute to this vision felt like a natural extension of my own passion for the natural world.
Nathalie Cetto: Being invited to collaborate with Maison Diptyque on the ‘Essences’ collection is an honour. I’ve long admired the house for its dedication to craftsmanship and its reverence for nature. The opportunity to create something that celebrates the natural world in such a profound way was irresistible.
W*: What was the process of developing your ‘Les Essences de Diptyque’ fragrance(s) like?
AC: The brief centred around the concept of Venetian coral, an element rich in history and visual allure. I was asked to interpret it through the lens of a floral fragrance, also referencing the idea of ‘chiaroscuro’; the shadows and light that intermingle in the Venetian Lagoon. My creative process often begins with extensive research to immerse myself fully in the subject. So what initially inspired me for ‘Corail Oscuro’ was Venetian coral’s fiery red colour, its chiselled shape – and above all, the notion of salinity. I didn’t want to create an aquatic perfume, as that would have been too predictable. It wasn’t easy, and my first proposals were a bit too dark and powdery. But this refinement phase was crucial, and once I focused on balancing these aspects, the final formulation came together swiftly and naturally.
FP: Interpreting mother of pearl and the desert rose crystal into perfume was a task as poetic as it was challenging. Both these elements are formed over time, sculpted by the forces of nature, and my goal was to reflect this slow, transformative process in the fragrances. This required selecting ingredients that themselves take time to reach their peak. For ‘Lunamaris’, I wanted to capture the iridescent quality of nacre, which required layering various materials to create a multifaceted, luminous scent. Similarly, for ‘Rose Roche’, I focused on the stark beauty of the desert rose, using a combination of fresh and mineral notes to evoke its strength and delicacy.
NC: For ‘Bois Corsé’ and ‘Lilyphéa’, the challenge was to evoke a sensory experience that captures the essence of these natural wonders – the bark of a tree and the smooth floating leaves of a water lily. The development process was one of deliberate reflection and careful selection. It was guided by the understanding that true luxury lies in taking the time to allow each element to reveal its full potential. With Diptyque, the creative process is unhurried, which allowed me to experiment with different combinations of ingredients and refine the fragrances until they felt both instinctive and harmonious.
W*: What notes have you included in the Essences de Diptyque fragrance you created and why?
AC: The heart of ‘Corail Oscuro’ is anchored by the Bourboniana rose from India, a rare hybrid chosen for its intense colour and velvety texture – both of which match the visual appeal of coral. To evoke the mineral and saline qualities of the coral environment, I incorporated unique ingredients such as natural leek extract – which brings a green, iodized freshness – and Sympep, a saffron-like spice derived from the oxidation of wood. These elements, combined with the toasted richness of santal, create a mineral, saline accord that captures the enigmatic essence of the coral. The composition is further brightened with Calabrian bergamot head extraction and hand-pressed Madagascar mandarin, lending an effervescent quality that contrasts beautifully with the deep, salty notes.
FP: In ‘Lunamaris’, the opening is bright and multifaceted, with pink pepper adding a spicy, fresh dimension, complemented by the warm, resinous glow of incense. These notes reflect the iridescence of nacre, creating a radiant, complex fragrance. The cistus labdanum absolute brings a deep, ambered warmth, reinforcing the idea of a timeless, precious element. For ‘Rose Roche’, I used Sfuma lemon essence to evoke the bright, searing light of the desert, which illuminates the heart of Moroccan centifolia rose absolute. This rose is both floral and honeyed, embodying the sensuality and heat of the desert sands. The fragrance is anchored by Indonesian patchouli essence, adding a warm, earthy depth, and Ambrox, which lends a mineral, addictive quality reminiscent of the desert’s raw beauty.
NC: For ‘Bois Corsé’, I wanted to capture the duality of the tree bark – its rough exterior and its tender, protected core. I achieved this by combining cedarwood fraction with the deep, roasted notes of Arabica coffee, and enriching it with the creamy warmth of sandalwood and the enveloping sweetness of tonka bean in both absolute and resinoid forms. This combination creates a fragrance that is both rugged and refined, echoing the protective strength and underlying softness of the natural world. For ‘Lilyphea’, I used violet leaf absolute to convey the green, crisp freshness of the leaves, paired with the zingy vibrancy of ginger essence. The comforting warmth of vanilla – there are three different qualities of vanilla in the perfume – provides a soft, enveloping contrast, mimicking the sensation of floating on a gentle, tranquil pond.
W*: How did you work together as a group of perfumers to ensure there was a balance between each of the individual fragrances in the ‘Essences de Diptyque’ collection?
AC: The collaborative process at Diptyque is unique and deeply enriching. Unlike many projects, where perfumers might work in competition, at Diptyque, each perfumer is given a distinct theme, fostering a sense of individual ownership and creativity. Each fragrance stands on its own, whilst contributing to the overall narrative of the collection, a testament to the respect the house affords its perfumers.
FP: The collaborative approach at Diptyque is one of the aspects I most appreciate about working with them. Each of us was entrusted with a specific element, and while we worked independently, there was a shared understanding that our creations needed to resonate with one another. The result is a symphony of scents that each tell their own story, while contributing to the larger narrative of the ‘Essences’ collection.
NC: Despite each of us having our distinct element to interpret, there was a shared vision and a deep mutual respect among the perfumers. This synergy allowed us to create fragrances that, while unique, are in dialogue with each other, much like the elements of nature themselves. The result is a collection that is cohesive yet diverse, with each fragrance contributing a different perspective to the overall story.
W*: How would you define a perfume by Diptyque in a few words?
AC: Every time I smell a perfume from Diptyque, there is a feeling of poetry. The formulas are bold, and simple but not simplistic, with a strong signature. Each creation has its own touch of ‘madness’, or ‘olfactory accident’. But the tone is always just right, the execution precise, and perfectly controlled. It’s an artist’s work.
FP: Elegance, authenticity, craftsmanship, and travel.
NC: A Diptyque perfume is a journey, where every scent is a carefully crafted masterpiece that celebrates the beauty and complexity of the natural world. It is a story told in fragrance – full of depth, character, and emotion.
The ‘Les Essences de Diptyque’ collection is available from 3 September, 2024.
