A new seafood restaurant has opened in place of the famous Lockside cafe at Bristol's Cumberland Basin. Daniel and Joie Rosser have taken over the riverside unit to open Noah’s, focusing on simple, fresh fish cookery and premium fish and chips.
Lockside was run by the same family for nearly 20 years, with a legacy as a cafe going back six decades. It featured in the sitcom Only Fools and Horses as Sid’s Cafe and was previously known as The Venturers Rest and Popeye's Diner.
“It’s stunning. You’ve got the view of Clifton and the crescent at the top and the Basin in front of you,” said co-owner and head chef, Dan, who has had a longstanding passion for seafood. The couple has always dreamed of opening their own fish restaurant and fell in love with the harbourside spot, which opened last week.
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Dan’s family first opened a fishmonger in Frome when he was just 15 years old, focusing their sights on Bath to open The Scallop Shell fish restaurant and later The Oyster Shell fish and chips takeaway over the past eight years. “We took fish and chips and respected what it was about,” Dan said.
From the age of 21, Dan honed his culinary skills with some of the most respected chefs in the UK, including Mitch Tonks, Nieves Barragán Mohacho at London's Sabor and Marco Pierre White. Joie fell in love with the hospitality industry while working at The Ritz in Singapore.
Dan said: “When we came to view the site we thought it was perfect for what we wanted to do. What we’re trying to create is an informal, relaxed, comfortable dining area but serving hopefully some of the most amazing fish that’s sourced around the UK.”
Noah’s fish is sourced from the south coast markets of Brixham, Plymouth and Newlyn. The shellfish comes from Scotland including hand-dived scallops from the Orkney Isles. “We’re just about celebrating the most amazing seafood that is sourced around the UK and cooking it as simply as possible,” Dan said.
While the menu offers fresh fried fish and simply grilled shellfish, with main dishes ranging from £16.95 to £28, Dan and Joie are still focusing on classic battered fish and chips too. The kitchen concentrates on using quality fish and potatoes and creating a luxurious batter that is miles more refined than what you’d find at your local chippy.
“It’s a tough time for the fish and chips industry, like everything in the world,” Dan reflected. “Cod has almost doubled in price, potatoes have gone up by 40 per cent and the oil had doubled.
“There’s no such thing as cheap fish and chips anymore, it was always perceived as the cheaper meal option. Unfortunately, those days are gone if you want to eat quality.
“We’ll never be price driven as such, we’ll always be about quality. We’re not going to be the cheapest place for fish and chips but we’re hoping it’s worth paying that extra £2 or £3 because the quality should be amazing.”
Noah’s offers The Lock Keeper’s Lunch, either cod, haddock or the house fish cake for £12.95 all served with a mug of Yorkshire tea. The team has also carefully curated a minimal but punchy wine list including a white from Cornwall and a Cuveé Brut made in East Sussex. Alternatively, you can order a bottle of beer, including Bath Gem’s signature amber ale or a Brewdog lager.
Dan added: “What I’d love the restaurant to become is if you want to pop in for fish and chips and beer or soft drink, you can, and it won’t be too expensive. If you want to indulge and have brill for two or scallops, you can really go for it.”
Noah’s, No. 1 Brunel Lock Road, Cumberland Basin, Bristol BS1 6XS. Open Tuesday to Saturday 12pm-3pm, 5pm-9pm, Sunday 12pm-4pm. Book online or call 01174 529240. https://www.noahsbristol.co.uk/
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