Fiji is the soft coral capital of the Pacific and the Cousteau name is synonymous with diving and ocean conservation. Certainly, the dozen spectacular coral reef dive sites, including Namena marine reserve, near the Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort are the resort’s biggest draw for international visitors.
However, as a girl who barely passed high school swim class, I can attest that there’s plenty else to do on the remote island of Vanua Levu, from visiting school children in Savusavu and the local farmer’s market to touring a world-class pearl farm, planting mangrove trees or just knocking back rum on your own private island. Daily snorkel trips, complimentary kayaks and a glass-bottom boat allow visitors of all ages and swimming abilities to get out on the ocean and meet sea creatures.
When it opened in 1995, Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort was the first luxury resort in all of Fiji. More than 20 years later, it’s still setting the standard for sustainable barefoot luxury. Two years after Cyclone Winston devastated the region, the resort has been entirely renovated. “We want to be a role model and show that you can live a very luxurious lifestyle but still be sustainable,” says Johnny Singh, the resort’s resident marine biologist. “It doesn’t have to be a compromise.”
When you pull up to the resort, a group of employees serenades you with a traditional welcome tune. Their warm energy and wide smiles are infectious. No matter how many flights it took to get here and how many hours it’s been since you last showered, you feel immediately at home. Yes, there’s a welcome drink (chilled lemongrass and ginger from the resort’s organic garden) but better yet there’s also a welcome foot scrub and massage in the comfort of your bure, using Pure Fiji coconut products. I can’t think of a better way to begin a vacation.
There are only 25 bures (traditional Fijian bungalows) at Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort and the 200 staff far outnumber guests. Children under five years old get their own personal nanny in the all-inclusive package. The Presidential Villa is magnificent, with an infinity pool, separate living room, outdoor dining pavilion for entertaining along with a sprawling master bedroom suite. Bathing options includes five showers, two outdoors. Rinse off while looking out at Naviavia, a private island tailor-made for romantic trysts. Picnic breakfasts, lunch and sunset drinks can be easily arranged. WiFi is available throughout the property but there are no telephones or TVs in bures, and no fitness center, encouraging guests to spend as much time in nature as possible.
General Manager Bart Simpson tells me that only half of guests go diving. The multitude of cultural and nature-focused activities available throughout the week provide an authentic Fijian adventure for everyone else. The majority of guests are Australians, and the ones I met on my rainforest waterfall hike were a fun bunch. After just a few minutes dipping in the pool, a massive surge of water came over the falls, hastening our departure but adding an element of excitement. Landlubbers have plenty of hiking opportunities all around Fiji’s second largest island.
Spa treatments are surprisingly immersive cultural experiences too. Each treatment is listed with its Fijian name and the organic spa products used are custom-made for the resort by local women. The Fufunu scrub is a signature treatment, a ritual for the daughter of a village chief before marriage. After a gentle but thorough exfoliation with a mixture of crushed nuts, a blend of virgin coconut oil and local honey nourishes and deeply hydrates sun-beaten skin. There are only two spa treatment rooms, both overlooking the ocean, although massages can also be booked at your bure at no extra charge.
The menu changes each day, on a weekly rotation, combining Fijian ingredients with global flavors. In line with the resort’s environmental ethos, no reef fish are served. Instead, pelagic fish found in open water like yellowfin tuna, deep sea snapper, mahi mahi and walu (escolar) appear on the menu. Chef Raymond Lee’s whole-fried snapper with sweet and sour sauce is a nod to his Chinese heritage. Lee grew up in Fiji and is a prime example of Fiji’s multiethnic heritage, which includes a large number of Indian immigrants. Naturally, curries here are excellent, served with roti, pappadum and coconut chutney. A Middle Eastern platter with smoky baba ghanoush and a spicy Thai beef salad were a couple more standouts.
Start each morning with a selection of wellness shots that you won’t find in any American juice bar. Tavola is a great pick-me-up after illness, noni is high in antioxidants and vitamins A and C, and wi bark increases collagen production and accelerates wound healing. Everything operates with a relaxed island time attitude, but all the employees have such big hearts and are willing to go above and beyond to make sure you’re having the best time. When I stumbled upon a retirement celebration for Wati, who had been working at the resort for more than 30 years, I was invited to take a seat on the woven pandanus leaf mat and join the music and kava-fueled festivities.
Nearly everyone working here live in the villages surrounding Savusavu, and it’s worth venturing into town on Saturday morning to explore the busy farmer’s market. There are different types of passion fruit, taro, bananas and plenty of spices for sale along with fresh fish and handicrafts like woven baskets and jewelry. As part of its commitment to support the community, Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort partners with the Savusavu Community Foundation to coordinate and fund medical clinics and projects assisting with education, health and hygiene.
In a developing country like Fiji, you might not expect to find distinguished luxury products. But the sustainable gems at J. Hunter Pearls are an ideal souvenir to take home, since they are also tools for conservation. Visit the showroom then tour their pearl farm in Savusavu Bay to learn more about pearl cultivation. Oysters need pristine water conditions to produce high quality pearls, so pearl farmers naturally adopt the role of sea stewards in order to protect their investment.
Getting There
Fiji Airways flies directly to Fiji from Honolulu, Los Angeles and San Francisco several times each week, with codeshare agreements to reach any major city in the United States. While there is no first class cabin, business class is friendly and comfortable even if the seats don’t quite lie fully flat. My flight attendants were chatty and proud of their Fijian heritage, excited for me to visit their home for the first time. The requisite warm towels before meal service were more plush than usual and sweetly scented with pineapple. The highlight in the amenity kit is a duo of Pure Fiji body lotion and body mist made with organic nut oils and noni fruit.
The menu includes familiar international flavors along with Fijiian accents like local beer and Fijian-inspired lamb curry with pumpkin and coconut rice. An option to dine light with soup, salad and bread is much appreciated on the late departures from the United States.
Fiji Airways has also debuted a new flagship lounge in Nadi International Airport this year. There’s a lush living green wall when you first walk in and a Fijian food cart serving sweet and salty snacks to accompany the more traditional food and drink offerings. Families will enjoy the children’s play room staffed by a qualified Fijian nanny.
