Executive producer Ryan Murphy and costume designer Lou Eyrich have once again joined forces to transport viewers into a mesmerizing world of high drama and glamour with their latest collaboration, 'Feud: Capote vs. The Swans.' This second installment of Murphy's 'Feud' series takes us back to 1960s and 1970s New York, delving into the intricate lives of the elite set.
Based on the bestselling book by Laurence Leamer titled 'Capote's Women: A True Story of Love, Betrayal, and a Swan Song for an Era,' the series follows the life of renowned author Truman Capote from the 1960s until his death in 1984. Capote, brilliantly portrayed by Tom Hollander, befriends and charms the upper echelons of Manhattan high society, including women like Babe Paley, C.Z. Guest, and Lee Radziwill, whom he affectionately dubs 'the swans.'
To bring this vibrant era to life, Eyrich and her team embarked on extensive research, immersing themselves in the fashion magazines of the time. Their attention to detail is evident in every scene where the costumes exude wealth, style, and elegance. While the swans were known for their iconic fashion choices, Eyrich steered away from flashy logos or bold patterns, instead opting for classic and timeless designs paired with exquisite jewelry, handbags, and hats.
Naomi Watts, who portrays Babe Paley, underwent a staggering 160 costume changes in just the first four episodes. Eyrich ensured that each costume aligned with the specific year, Paley's personal style, and the narrative arc. Watts, deeply committed to her character, reveled in the process of transforming into Babe Paley, exclaiming, 'I think this is absolutely it,' as she admired herself in the mirror.
Eyrich's commitment to detail extended beyond costumes that are only partially seen on screen. Even for scenes where only the waist-up is visible, the team meticulously crafted complete ensembles to maintain authenticity. Eyrich admits to being a stickler for tailoring, believing that every element contributes to the overall visual impact.
As the series progresses, Capote's costumes become a reflection of his deteriorating state. Starting off with bow ties and tailored suits, his wardrobe eventually devolves into mismatched garments and carelessly unbuttoned shirts, mirroring his descent into alcoholism. Hollander's portrayal captures the flamboyance and tragedy of Capote's later years.
One of the standout moments of the series is the recreation of Capote's famous Black and White masquerade ball held at the Plaza Hotel in 1966. To create the grandeur and allure of the event, Murphy enlisted the talents of renowned designer Zac Posen. Posen elevated the costumes to new heights, incorporating crystals, feathers, and elaborate masks. Drawing inspiration from various creators, Posen's creations straddle the line between reality and surrealism, leaving viewers in awe of the fantastical ensembles.
The attention to detail extended beyond the costumes themselves, with genuine jewelry from esteemed designers like Verdura, Van Cleef & Arpels, Belperron, and Cartier adorning the actors. Eyrich was initially apprehensive about the responsibility of overseeing such valuable pieces, but the production provided security personnel to ensure their safety. The presence of these security guards, vigilantly protecting the priceless jewelry, created amusing and lighthearted moments on set.
The costumes played a pivotal role in helping the actors fully embody their characters. Demi Moore attests to the transformative power of the wardrobe, stating that it influenced how the characters carried themselves. Molly Ringwald, a vintage clothing enthusiast, was captivated by Eyrich's craftsmanship, even offering to be her assistant. Chloe Sevigny commended Eyrich's encyclopedic knowledge of historical accuracy, ensuring that each detail aligned with the character's intentions.
Murphy and Eyrich's collaboration on 'Feud: Capote vs. The Swans' showcases their seamless partnership in creating visually stunning and emotionally resonant worlds. Through meticulous research and wardrobe choices, they transport viewers back to the glamorous heyday of Manhattan's elite. The costumes vividly capture the essence of the era and play an integral role in bringing these complex characters to life. As the series unfolds, 'Feud: Capote vs. The Swans' promises to be a captivating exploration of love, betrayal, and the downfall of a literary icon.
