The Biden administration is proposing banning hair straighteners that contain formaldehyde, products in the US which are largely used by Black women.
The move comes after years of pressure from public health advocates and follows recent calls from the US congresswomen Shontel Brown and Ayanna Pressley, both Black women, to ban the products.
“The FDA’s proposal to ban these harmful chemicals in hair straighteners and relaxers is a win for public health – especially the health of Black women,” Pressley said. “Regardless of how we wear our hair, we should be allowed to show up in the world without putting our health at risk.”
Formaldehyde is most commonly used as an ingredient in embalming fluid. But it is also added to cosmetics, personal care products and some medicines as a preservative. It is also used in products like household cleaners, flooring, synthetic fabrics, paint and wallpaper. The chemical’s use has come under increased scrutiny from regulators and public health advocates because it is odorless and colorless, and highly toxic.
Among other health issues, it is linked to several cancers and respiratory disease, and repeated exposure to it can irritate the eyes, skin, lungs and throat. Straighteners have been found to contain a toxic stew of chemicals that can also include bisphenol, phthalates, parabens and other dangerous compounds.
The announcement comes on the heels of a Boston University study that for several decades followed about 45,000 Black women who were mostly moderate or heavy users of the relaxers. The research found a more than 50% increased risk of uterine cancer compared with those who rarely used them. It built on previous research that produced similar findings.
Similar findings in a 2022 National Cancer Institute paper showed that Black women made up only 7% of the study participants, but 60% of those who reported ever using straighteners.
The issue “especially affects people of color, and women who use hair straighteners are more likely to have certain cancers”, said Erika Schreder, science director with the Toxic Free Future non-profit.
A 2022 lawsuit targets L’Oréal over its toxic hair-straightening products. The suit’s lead plaintiff was a Black woman and heavy user of hair straighteners who developed uterine cancer at 28 years old and can no longer have children.
The FDA’s proposed rule targets products that contain formaldehyde or those that contain ingredients such as methylene glycol that can form formaldehyde once the product is used. Methylene glycol is a common ingredient that locks in the straightening effects, and formaldehyde helps bond the keratin in the product with the natural keratin in the hair.
The process of finalizing the rule could take well over a year, and the situation highlights the nation’s broken regulatory apparatus, public health advocates say. US law does not require the FDA to approve or test cosmetics for safety, or approve them before they are sent to market – instead the law states that products cannot contain ingredients that will harm consumers, or are adulterated.
That’s a problem because most people think the FDA ensures that cosmetic ingredients are tested for safety, and there is strong evidence the products are sickening people, Schreder said.
“Unfortunately, the US regulatory system doesn’t require companies to test ingredients for safety before they’re used in cosmetics, so we have chemicals in products today that can harm our health,” she said. “Formaldehyde is a clear example – even though it’s a known carcinogen, it’s present in many products.”
