Fashion East has built a reputation as the place for nurturing emerging talent. The non-profit incubator was founded in 2000 by Lulu Kennedy, and it counts the likes of Kim Jones, Simone Rocha, Jonathan Anderson and Grace Wales Bonner amongst its star-studded alumni.
For AW25, Fashion East has brought back the same designers as SS25 — Olly Shinder, Nuba and Louther (formerly known as Loutre). In its regular stomping ground of the Old Truman Brewery in East London, with a bar by legendary restaurant Bistrotheque, the Friday night show was abuzz with anticipation.
As guests took their seats opposite a backdrop of transparent plastic, the three designers presented their respective collections.
Louther
First up was Louther, founded by German designer Olympia Schiele. The label made its debut at Fashion East last season, and draws references from London’s skate culture, while utilising deadstock fabrics to create unexpected looks.
This season, the Louther vision was all grown up. Kitten heels, long leather gloves and tailoring featured throughout the collection, alongside baggy pants and oversized jackets (in fur and leather).
The label collaborated with Polish visual artist Helena Minginowicz on the collection, who uses airbrush techniques to create visual illusions. By blending classical influences with mass production and digital aesthetics, she reflects on the intersection of high and low culture—an echo of the themes within this collection.
Nuba
Nuba is a menswear label designed by Cameron Williams and Jebi Labembika. It debuted under Fashion East last season, for SS25. Their culture-clash, tailoring focused designs are influenced by growing up in South London, combined with their Afro-Caribbean and West African roots.
The show notes read: "This collection began with the concept of waking up from a figurative coma, a dream bound by our surroundings, developing into a deeper question of whether geography or people define a state of mind."
Hoods, scarves and knitwear formed layers of "protective armour". The muted greys and browns featured throughout represented a city, contrasted against the blues and greens of nature. This was a practical and wearable collection that reflected the modern world, and the many demands of it.
Olly Shinder
It was CSM graduate Olly Shinder’s fourth and final season showing as a part of Fashion East. His designs subvert hypermasculine dress codes, by reinterpreting military and technical wear, as well as being inspired by London’s queer culture and nightlife.
While Shinder's design codes were present, there was a noticeable shift from his usual club-meets-fetish-wear aesthetic. This season, similarly to his fellow designers, felt more serious and grown up with blazers, shirt dresses and well-cut separates. There was also a wider expansion into womenswear, inspired by 1950s nursing uniforms, which could clearly be seen in the smock and pinafore dresses.
Shinder's references included Tim Burton's 1989 film Batman, late 90s continental European menswear and the city of São Paulo. What he goes on to do post-Fashion East will certainly be worth watching.
