Although it’s hard to pin down the details, the trenchcoat was invented for military officers some time in the 19th century to be worn, quite literally, in the trenches. Thanks to Hollywood noir and espionage classics, it graduated into a unisex symbol of style, but kept its name and some of its military details.
Like most things that have remained in fashion for over a century, the trenchcoat has been continuously reimagined – from the original beige cotton twill to lightweight synthetics, shiny pleather and buttery leather. It has been long and short, oversized and fitted.
It is worn with equal enthusiasm by suits and influencers, by rich art-aunties and struggling artists, by movie stars in real life and villains and heroes on screen. Needless to say, it is a wardrobe staple worth investing in, and if you pick the right one, it can last a lifetime.
The fabric
Your fabric choice should be dictated by what you want to use the trench for.
A classic trench is made from gabardine, a cotton twill so densely woven it is waterproof. Garbardine can sometimes be made of wool, or a cotton-wool blend.
Luxury house Burberry, who started making coats in the 1850s, say garbardine was invented by Thomas Burberry in 1879 “to protect explorers from the elements” by providing them with a breathable alternative to oiled or rubberised fabrics.
Stylist Emily Ward says that wool twill works well for a heavier winter trench, silk crepe can give a trench a formal look (though it sacrifices rain-resistance) and “vegan leather and high shine fabrications provide a great modern version of the traditional trench”.
The lining
While lining is not essential if you are looking for a lighter trench for summer, the point of lining is to make your trench more comfortable to wear. This means you have to pay attention to the lining’s fabric, too.
“A cotton or viscose lining means breathability,” says Roshali Kaul Shang, the womenswear buyer for Harrolds Australia, “which is very important for when you are wearing layers underneath”.
Viscose has a few different names including rayon, cupro, modal and lyocell. Try to avoid synthetic linings made from polyester or nylon. These won’t breathe and will hold on to odour.
Ward suggests looking for coats with a removable lining made from cotton as this is “ideal for laundering”. Removable lining also means you can switch it in and out depending on the temperature.
The fit
How your trench fits should be determined by your height, personal style and the functions it needs to perform. If it does its job properly, you’ll be able to wear it for a long time – making it a more sustainable purchase.
Ward says a trench should “read as confident ... the perfect meeting of form and function.” One way to ensure functionality for a piece designed to be worn in all seasons is buying it in a size you can layer under. Try coats on over a thick knitted jumper or cardigan to get the sizing right.
“People buy trenchcoats too snug,” says Ward. “As outwear they look better slightly eased and relaxed, rather than too form fitting.” If you prefer a more shapely look, Ward suggests cinching the waist and playing with how you wear the collar and sleeves to create your preferred proportions.
If it’s height you’re after, Kaul Shang suggests choosing a double-breasted coat in a longer cut, with a strong shoulder. This will make you look taller and give “a more utilitarian and contemporary look”.
The trimmings
“The trims, buttons and fastenings on a trench are a window into the quality and craftsmanship of the garment,” says Ward. “They are almost like an accessory.” Since trenchcoats were originally created for army uniforms and expeditions into the unknown, a good trench will come with features to help the wearer weather a storm.
The extra piece of fabric that runs across the upper back of some trenchcoats is called a storm shield. Burberry say this feature was added to “allow water to run off the shoulders more efficiently”.
A flap on the right or left breast pocket – sometimes mistakenly referred to as a “gun flap”, but actually called a storm flap – can be buttoned up to close off the top of the coat, which also helps prevent rain from getting in.
Curiously, it is not uncommon to see modern trenchcoats that still have flaps, without the function. Though they resemble storm flaps, they either do not have buttons, do not reach far enough to help button the coat shut, or in many cases, both.
On double-breasted styles, an additional fastening on the front of the collar, right underneath the chin, can be done up to allow the trench to be worn like a scarf. This protects against harsh winds. Additional D-rings on the belt are for securing equipment (although in today’s terms you probably wouldn’t hang a phone from one).
Finally, if you’re looking at a trench with a large split in middle of the back hem, make sure it comes with a button or two, which will give you the option of keeping the slit closed on cold and windy days.
