Lying on a water bed in a Lake Garda hotel spa, wearing an anti-ageing face mask I feel a bit daft – but also the most relaxed I’ve been in years. Some of that is to do with the magic touch of the Hotel Lido Palace’s skilled masseuse Jasmine just moments before.
But mostly it’s to do with the restorative powers of the beautiful Trentino region of northern Italy.
One of the country’s few regions not touched by the sea, it’s famous for its mountain peaks, including the soaring Dolomites, alpine woods, valleys, rivers and lakes – most notably, the gleaming waters of Lake Garda.
As thousands fly into the city break hotspots of Venice and Milan, less touristy Trentino is an ideal place to relax, enjoy the scenery, eat fabulous food and drink wonderful wine.
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I started my trip with a visit to Casa del Vino della Vallagarina in Isera, a charming shrine to wine with 17th-century rafters and gorgeous valley views.
Also a foodie paradise, it has a set menu which changes daily and is paired with the local vino.
Italian grilled cheese in breadcrumbs with apple was followed by a moreish basil risotto, but the star of the show was the bacon-wrapped rabbit on polenta. Every delicate morsel had been prepared with precision and cooked to perfection.
Keen to feast my eyes on some of Trentino’s beautiful landscapes, I hire an e-bike in the city of Rovereto, my base for the trip, and took a 16-mile guided trip along the Enantio cycle trail to Castello di Avio.
Although it sounds daunting, it isn’t as the electrics do the legwork, while your eyes take in the mountain scenery.
Along the way, tour guide Linda Tambosi tells the group about the brown bears and wolves that roam the uplands, but cows are apparently the bigger fatal hazard to humans. I didn’t encounter anything worrying however, apart from the occasional amorous lizard lurching across the pathways.
We pass enticing restaurants with mountain and valley views, and pretty houses with flowers bursting from their roofs.
While most of us probably take far too many videos and pictures on holiday, never to be looked at again, I find myself wishing I could record the whole thing to relive it later.
It is also a treat for the ears, with birdsong and the sound of trickling water from streams and rivers.
The time and miles fly by and we are soon at the 1,000-year-old castle high on the hill. Butterflies abound as we scale the cobbled path lined with caper trees. Inside there are colourful frescoes depicting ancient battle scenes in this heavily contested region which used to be part of Austria.
It’s one of the ironies of architecture that areas which once witnessed the most bloodshed are often the prettiest in peacetime as this castle-strewn area shows.
We stay for a lunch of veggie dishes made with produce grown in the grounds, before setting off on a short ride to the organic vineyards of San Leonardo – so esteemed that Barack Obama and Pope Francis have both visited.
You’d hope the President and the Pontiff got stuck into the five tasting samples of their current vintages like we do. You also get a whirl around the barrel cellar and monastic gardens with its rose and herb collection as part of the experience.
The wine is so good my companions immediately head to the gift shop to stock up. It leaves me to minesweep the open bottles. Waste not, want not, eh?
Next day, we travel to the lakeside town of Riva del Garda for a scenic cruise across the lake.
With the sails providing the power we peacefully glide about this vast clear water, sunshine dancing off ripples.
Beautifully presented gourmet snacks, such as salted meat tartare with goat’s cheese and plums, are nibbled with ice cold Ferrari fizz – a classic sparkling wine first created by Guilio Ferrari in Trentino as a competitor to French Champagne.
The wind-ruffled waters of the north of Lake Garda are also enjoyed by paddle boarders and windsurfers hiring kit at the shore, while the many beaches are a boon for swimmers and sunbathers. Wellness is also big in these parts and the lakeside Lido Palace, where I enjoyed a few hours of pampering, offers day packages.
The rocky heights surrounding this idyllic spot offer spectacular hiking and cycling opportunities.
The Strada del Ponale trail, which connects Riva del Garda and Valle di Ledro started life in the second half of the 19th century. Since 2004 it has been closed to traffic and limited to cyclists and hikers. Thanks to its position and architecture, it is one of the most beautiful roads in Europe.
If you’re staying by the lake for dinner, head to the Ristorante Antiche Mura in Riva del Garda. Inside tables set against white-washed walls are romantic for an evening sampling carefully planned dishes, or sit on the terrace and enjoy the night air. Try the grilled white fish – lavarello – from the lake served with mini roast potatoes, spinach and tomatoes.
I enjoyed my time staying in Rovereto, not a typically touristy town, nestled in the Lagarina valley.
There are expressive murals painted on the walls of its atmospheric alleys, delightful squares, an art gallery and war museum, set inside a 14th-century castle. Peaceful and well run, the Hotel Leon d’Oro is a popular choice for travellers on cycling tours.
With magnificent lakes and mountains, historic landmarks and beautiful vineyards, cycling, sipping and sailing in Trentino is a super way to spend some time off.
Book the holiday
GET THERE: EasyJet flies direct to Verona and Milan from Gatwick starting at £26.99 one-way. easyjet.com
BOOK IT: Rooms at the Hotel Leon d’Oro in Rovereto, Trentino, start at around £106 a night. hotelleondoro.it
Day spa/pool passes at Lido Palace in Riva del Garda, Trentino, start at around £47. lido-palace.it.
MORE INFO: Head to visittrentino.info/en and visitrovereto.it/en
