The icy water clawed at my skin as I clenched my fists and channelled my inner Viking. Moments earlier I had been floating in a toasty geothermal lagoon but now I was sitting in a cold plunge pool on a quest to relax my mind, body and soul.
I lasted for the best part of a minute before running for the sauna.
This chilly experience was part of the 7-Step Ritual at Sky Lagoon, the new kid on the block in the world of thermal spas. Located minutes from downtown Reykjavik in Iceland, it is the latest rival to the better known Blue Lagoon, which has become the haunt of bikini-clad influencers posing for snaps in misty blue waters.
Sky Lagoon aims to capture the spirit of Icelandic bathing culture while combining tradition with slick modern hospitality. The man-made ocean-side lagoon is framed by rugged volcanic rock walls, and ancient building techniques were revived to create an impressive turf wall exterior.
Alternating between hot and cold sensations, the ritual also included a visit to a cold fog-mist room, an exfoliating salt scrub, a steam room and shower.
I had never thought of myself as a spa person but by the time I returned to the waters of the lagoon feeling refreshed, I was ready to buy a lifetime membership.
After soaking for hours I grabbed a glass of champagne from the swim-up bar and settled by the pool’s infinity edge to watch an incredible sunset.
As I looked out onto the North Atlantic Ocean and Fagradalsfjall volcano, the "golden hour" stretched into a golden afternoon. Every few minutes the sunset transformed before my eyes, warm tones slowly giving way to striking blue and purples.
It was the perfect introduction to the Land of Fire and Ice.
Iceland’s pastel skies
Reykjavik is perhaps not an obvious city-break destination, but during my short trip Iceland’s ethereal pastel skies were a welcome contrast to the UK’s grey winter colour palette.
Although the long nights were disorientating, waking and starting each morning in darkness was a fair trade for the soft hues of blue, purple and pink that emerged as the sun rose from around 10am.
The Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Marina was a short walk from the city centre, including the iconic Rainbow Street.
This started as a temporary art feature during the annual Gay Pride festival, and the multicoloured pathway is now a permanent fixture on the city’s central shopping street. As are the tourists desperate for the perfect Instagram snap. At the end of the rainbow stands Hallgrimskirkja, the majestic church which towers over the city, its rocket-ship shape inspired by natural rock formations.
The nearby streets are bursting with the usual novelty shops offering fun souvenirs such as black lava salt and funky chocolate bars from the nearby Omnom factory, which was featured in Zac Efron’s Netflix wellness series Down To Earth.
But if you’re looking for ocean views and a less touristy atmosphere, the historic harbour area to the northwest of the city centre is well worth a visit. The Grandi Harbour District has been transformed in recent years and is now teeming with hip restaurants, boho boutiques, museums and cafes.
Rotten shark tastes as good as it sounds
"Chew it no more than five times, then swallow. Otherwise you’ll taste the ammonia."
Those were the comforting words of our tour guide as she prepared us for an encounter with hákarl – fermented shark.
As I stared at the small white rubber cube on my toothpick, she explained that the Greenland shark’s flesh is toxic so it must be cured before it can be safely consumed.
I wish I could offer a lengthy description of what it tasted like but after swiftly administering five chomps I washed it down with a shot of Black Death, or Brennivin, as instructed, and tasted little else as the strong schnapps burned my throat.
This questionable delicacy was served alongside a much more palatable portion of hearty Icelandic meat soup at Íslenski Barinn, one of the stops on the Wake Up Reykjavik food tour.
Another highlight included a brush with the gods at a place once visited by Tom Hiddleston.
Located in the Neighbourhood of the Gods, where the streets are named after Nordic deities, Café Loki is a cosy restaurant serving traditional cuisine. In a warmly lit wood-panelled room, I listened as our guide took us on a whistle-stop tour of Norse mythology, including tales of Thor, Loki and Freya.
The rye bread ice cream is a must-try but if you bring up the Marvel movies, be prepared for a lecture on Hollywood’s butchering of the pronunciation of Ragnarök.
A glimpse of the 'unseen Iceland'
My short visit to Iceland did not allow time for day trips to the country’s incredible volcanoes, geysers and its rolling mountains.
But luckily a hi-tech attraction in the heart of the up-and-coming Grandi district offered the chance to see all this and much more in a matter of minutes.
Strapped into the immersive FlyOver Iceland ride, feet dangling before a 66ft curved screen, I was transported through valleys, across mountain ranges and high over breathtaking landscapes.
Special effects including gusts of wind, mists and scents combined with the ride’s motion bring the experience to life.
The footage was captured during more than 100 hours of flying time with Iceland’s top stunt helicopter pilot Jon Bjornsson.
For visitors who are not sure exactly where to start on their adventures it could be a great source of inspiration, while also offering a glimpse of the 'unseen Iceland' – places that are generally inaccessible to tourists.
A cosy winter break
Iceland is a place determined to honour its traditions while also embracing modernity, making it a perfect destination for a cosy winter getaway that blends excitement with comfort.
Whether floating in the warm waters of a lagoon or breathing in the salty ocean air while wandering the snowy streets, a warm bowl of meat soup is never far away.
But maybe give the rotten shark a miss…
BOOK IT
- Rooms at the Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Marina start at £134 a night. Find out more at icelandairhotels.com.
- A day pass to the Sky Lagoon including a 7-Step Ritual costs £57 per person. Find out more at skylagoon.com.
- FlyOver Iceland experience costs £29 for age 13+ and £14 for under 12s. Find out more at flyovericeland.com.
- easyJet offers flights from Luton, Gatwick, Bristol, Manchester, Edinburgh to Keflavik, Iceland, from £20.99 one-way. Find out more at easyjet.com.
You can also get more information at visiticeland.com.
