Phoebe Philo, the beloved fashion designer and minimalist vanguard, launched her much-awaited eponymous line today. The LVMH-backed luxury line is arguably the most-anticipated launch of 2023. Philo's new brand offers her signature luxe minimalism, seen in her work designing for Céline and Chloé, with an edge (and some price points!) that have mouths agape.
The queen of quiet luxury held no punches in her self-titled debut. Featured items include a stunning $19,000 all-sequin white sheath and an XL Cabas tote, which seems like an upleveled, $8,500 version of Céline’s famed IYKYK bag. The square-toe ankle boots in black leather sold out within minutes, and we predict the $2,000 asymmetrical silk satin dress, made of stucco stretch silk satin with a built-in bodysuit, will quickly become a celebrity fave.
Philo, a graduate of the Central Saint Martins’ fashion program in London, was the creative director of Chloé from 2001-2006 and then held the same role at Céline for nine years. The British designer is famous for her brand rejuvenation techniques with her feminine, modern clothing and simple yet distinctive handbags. To wit, her reign of minimalism created a cult following. Many fashion folks devote special, invite-only sales to her collections for Céline (years 2008-2017), dubbed by those in the know as the “Old Céline” era. She invented the Céline Luggage, Phantom, and Belt Bags as well as the Chloé Paddington bag and made her mark with the celeb-loved Céline scarf shirt.
Following her departure from Céline, Philo took a four-year hiatus, which ended in July 2021 when she confirmed her return to the fashion world with her eponymous line. Since then, the fashion-informed have been waiting with bated breath for this debut. Philo teased the drop by sending out a simple introductory email in June 2023 with the launch date and a series of flashing images—no further information was provided. In late July, the company asked people to sign up for her PhoebePhilo.com to receive "news and other updates."
At the time, the British designer revealed a glimpse into what was to come, including ready-to-wear clothing, bags, shoes, and accessories. "Being in my studio and making once again has been both exciting and incredibly fulfilling," she said in a press statement. "I am very much looking forward to being back in touch with my audience and people everywhere. To be independent, to govern and experiment on my own terms is hugely significant to me."
Now that the collection is live, you can see for yourself what Phoebe Philo's new venture looks like.
