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Manchester Evening News
Manchester Evening News
Entertainment
Dianne Bourne

Establishment was the place to be before Rosso, but its rise and fall was rapid

In modern day Manchester we know it as Rosso, the super-glitzy Italian restaurant sitting at the top of King Street which is co-owned by footballing legend Rio Ferdinand. But before Man United star Rio made his foray into the restaurant world, the building was a trailblazing venue that aimed to change the city's dining scene.

Back in 2004, Establishment was considered the most significant opening of the year - launching amid a blaze of publicity and with foodies clamouring to dine inside its opulent interiors. It had taken on the historic Lancashire and Yorkshire bank building that had previously been Rothwell's bar on Spring Gardens, at the top of King Street.

With acclaimed chef Ian Morgan at the helm, it fast became talked about as a Michelin Star contender for Manchester. The city had long been waiting for a nod in the guide at that point, having not held a star since The French at the Midland back in the 1970s.

Read more : Inside Reform - the celebhaunt bar that "changed the scene" in Manchester in the late 1990s

When you look at how Rosso has revelled in the bank's glorious interior features in the present day, it's inexplicable to think that Establishment's bosses decided to cover up much of the stunning Grade-II listed details. There was a stark magenta circular cover over the marble - and what diners recall was a 'dayglo bar'.

Ian Morgan was executive chef - pictured here showcasing desserts beneath the memorable domed roof of the former bank building (Phil Taylor)

The bank's gorgeous domed ceiling was also given a modern lick of paint - with the glass covered with a rather naff mural of a fake sky instead.

The food was the star here though - and it soon gained the attention of national food critics, as well as the rumblings that Michelin glory was coming back to the city.

Acclaimed chef Ian Morgan was one of the partners in the business, coming as he did with pedigree from some of the UK's finest kitchens of the time. Chairman was entrepreneur Carl Lewis - the man who famously created Cheshire Oaks, the vast Ellesmere Port shopping mall.

But while the food wowed critics and revellers alike, many felt it 'lacked ambience' as a dining destination.

The extraordinary magenta walls inside Establishment (Phil Taylor)

In the M.EN.'s review of the place back in 2005 our critic was less than impressed with the 'dayglo cocktail bar' and the 'notorious purple pod' that broke up the cavernous space and marble walls. But he did enjoy the food, which he said showed 'great expertise and invention'.

Establishment's chief executive was Tim Molloy, who told the M.E.N of the big ambitions for the restaurant back in 2007. He said: "Establishment has a burning ambition to succeed. We have created a restaurant that Manchester can be proud of."

Alas, that burning ambition would be snuffed out just a year later when Establishment closed for good.

Cocktails at the 'dayglo bar' (Phil Taylor)

After Establisment's era ended, it was taken on by foodie entrepreneur Adam Karim. He would turn it into Karims, an Indian restaurant, but that too would be a short-lived presence in the spectacular space.

Adam would go on to invest in the Don Giovanni Italian brand, that continues to be one of the city's most popular Italian restaurants. Meanwhile the former bank building's fortunes finally turned around in 2009, when it was taken over by Rio Ferdinand and business partners to become Rosso.

It would go on to become one of the city's most talked about celeb haunts. Rio, who was still playing for Manchester United at the time of the launch, would regularly be spotted at the venue, as would a host of his star team-mates like Wayne Rooney.

Rosso gave a new lease of life to the stunning building - pictured here in 2016 (Manchester Evening News)

When it first opened it stayed true to the Rosso of its title (it means red in Italian) with reds, blacks and greys across the interiors. The marble walls were returned to their former glory - although would go on to become dotted with photos of all the superstars who dined there.

Rosso would go on to have another transformation in 2017 with the interiors turned to all-white - and again in 2021 to its currently glitzy interiors with touches of gold. Now in its 13th year, it's become something of a city establishment.

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