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It seems like everyone loves train travel in Europe. Night train services are increasing all the time, making it easier than ever before to travel across the continent by rail. And, rather excitingly, Southeast Asia is following suit.
Thailand’s improvements to its train lines are rolling out year on year, with international links opening and national lines getting swifter. Whether you live in Bangkok or are travelling around the kingdom on a holiday or sabbatical, making the most of the trains here is something we don’t do in Thailand as often as we should, with domestic flights and long haul buses being so cheap.
But there’s a lot to be said for the stress-free, scenic routes of the Thai railways, which are low cost and extremely reliable – ask a Thai friend if they have train strikes here and they’ll look at you bemused, questioning what a ‘strike’ is. Having lived in Thailand for three years, I’ve tested some of the best routes out of the capital.
Here are four of my favourite train trips to take from Bangkok, starting at Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal Station (formerly known as Bang Sue Grand Station), to enjoy your time away from the vibrant, bustling city.
Bangkok to Ayutthaya
This is an easy day trip from Bangkok: history-rich Ayutthaya is just one hour away by train. Setting off bright and early is the way forward because there’s so much to see in Thailand’s former capital city, so I suggest hopping on board at 7.30am, with a third-class seat setting you back 20 Thai baht (50p) – not the comfiest seat, sure, but it will get you there. Ayutthaya train station is a short drive from the old town centre so I use Grab (Bolt works too) to get a taxi to bicycle and moped rental agency Tour With Thai (TWT) where my old favourite, Joy, rents me a bike for the day. It’s a flat city and easy to navigate, so I drive to Wat Phanan Choeng Worawihan to pay my respects to the biggest Buddha in town at the huge and very much operational temple, before heading off to Wat Lokkayasutha, a ruin with a colossal, plaster-coated reclining Buddha. I whip to Wat Chaiwatthanaram in time to watch the sunset over the huge complex of pointed stupas, before heading to the dinky station to get the train back to Bangkok.
Where to stay
The Siam, Bangkok’s riverside boutique resort, 15 minutes taxi or car ride from Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal Station (Bang Sue Grand Station).
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Bangkok to Hua Hin
A great weekend getaway from Bangkok, Thailand’s original beach resort Hua Hin has a long history of hospitality; the town played host to the royal family who had their ornate summer palace built there in the 1920s. Consequently, the railway station is just as embellished, with the 1926 station a real gem of Thai design. Even after the recent modernisation, the striking red and white stripes make it the most memorable station in the country. On disembarking, I go on a little quest to find the original signal control huts. I get here on the 7.30am train from Bangkok; a journey which has recently been reduced from a four-hour ride to a swift three hours since the upgrading and raising of the tracks. Depending on which service you board, a one-way ticket costs as low as £1. There’s no denying I’m here for the beach, which is a white sand beauty, lined with luxury hotels like the Avani+ and The Standard. Post-beach, head to fantastic restaurant La Terrasse; the shrimp, lobster and mussels are all stellar here. It’s not all beach and seafood though, as there are great waterfalls near Hua Hin. Next on my hit list is the majestic eleven tiered Pa La-U rock waterfall in Kaeng Krachan National Park; a rope swing awaits with my name on it.
Where to stay
The Standard, Hua Hin, is regularly voted one of the best seaside resorts in Asia.
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Bangkok to Pak Chong for Khao Yai National Park
There’s a cluster of sprawling tropical national parks just a few hours from Bangkok, but only one has a train-themed luxury hotel in its lush green forests. With that in mind, I hop on the 7.10am North East Line train to Pak Chong and get a window seat, snoozing to the rhythmic sounds of the wheels on rails below, dreaming of retro train carriage hotel rooms. Three and a half hours later, after whizzing past Buddha-lined hills and monastery towns, my dream became a reality as I arrived completely windswept – the train windows were wide open the whole way. I was picked up from the station and driven to the Bill Bensley-designed InterContinental Khao Yai, which is a Disneyland for train-loving adults, and a love letter to all things rail and to Thailand of old. Bensley’s art team scoured the country for years to find the antiques, maps and memorabilia that line the walls and adorn the corridors. It’s the salvaged train coaches that have been sumptuously decked out in and repurposed as a tea room, a restaurant adaptly called Poirot (given the Art Deco style interiors), a spa, and 19 colourful but oh-so-elegant carriage bedrooms. If you can prise yourself away from the resort, the national park next door is one of the few places in Thailand where you can still see wild elephants, as well as gibbons and hornbills.
Where to stay
It has to be the InterContinental Khao Yai, a luxury resort for train lovers.
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Bangkok to Chiang Mai
This is Thailand’s most popular train ride, and one to book in advance. The 13-hour journey from Bangkok to ‘Rose of the North’ Chiang Mai is best taken overnight. The sun rises as the train trundles out of the jungle and through the cities of Lampang then Lamphun, so scenic views are plentiful. Word to the wise: go for a second-class ticket and be sure to nab a lower bunk, which are bigger, comfier and further away from the blasting AC unit. Three night train services run from Bangkok to Chiang Mai every evening, and I suggest aiming for Special Express Service 9 (or 10 in the opposite direction) as the shiny, newer train has better facilities. Give yourself at least a few days in Chiang Mai, ideally over the weekend so you can check out the night markets. Wua Lai walking street market is set up every Saturday night and the city’s largest, the Sunday walking street, stretches along the length of Rachadamnoen Road, which cuts a horizontal line through the old city. Whether you buy a bowl from the night markets or one of the small local restaurants, be sure to try Chiang Mai’s much-loved noodle dish, khao soy, at least once. Chicken is usually on top of the lightly spiced yellow noodles but vegetarian and vegan versions are easy to find in the temple city – look for the ‘jay’ restaurants near the temples and monasteries.
Where to stay
137 Pillars House is a heritage stay, just a five-minute taxi ride from Chiang Mai train station.
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Find out more about ethical and sustainable travel options, and other ways to support local communities and protect the environment during your stay at Responsible Thailand
Read more: Drenched by Super Soakers and blasted by buckets of water – celebrating Songkran in Chiang Mai
