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With its pastel-painted charming villas built into the cliffside, Instagram-worthy coastal beaches and face-contortingly sharp yet sweet locally-made lemon sorbet, it’s no wonder that the jewel in Italy’s crown, the Amalfi Coast, attracts around five million tourists a year.
The quaint way of life and culture is protected here in a way you won’t find in other tourist spots around the world. Italian cuisine reigns supreme (you won’t find any chain restaurants or takeaways) and the lives of locals are woven into the fabric of daily life – nonnas hang their washing out over the cliffs and old Italian men play cards with their morning espressos.
However, as stunning as Amalfi is, the tourist bustle can get a bit… much at times. Accessible only by winding, hard-to-navigate roads, traffic jams are common, and the town centres can be a bit of a squeeze, especially in peak summer months. Add in the stifling summer heat and you’ve got a recipe for a holiday meltdown.
However, for those looking to escape the crowds, just a short jaunt down the coast you’ll find a spot that’s nearly untouched by tourists, yet captures the delicious spirit of that much sought-after dolce vita.
The little-known town of Maratea, referred to as ‘the pearl of the Tyrrhenian’ in the Basilicata region just north of Campania, can be accessed by a speedy direct train from Salerno. Taking just an hour, you can kick back and enjoy the cool breeze of the AC and the free lemonade provided by the on-board staff, watching the countryside views roll on by. Costing around £10, it’s an affordable option, too.
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The coastal municipality of Maratea is made up of only 5,000 inhabitants, sprawled over 70 square kilometres, and is distinct in its combination of enviable coastline, lush forested hills and mountains, and quaint town centre boasting family-run restaurants and boutiques.
Formerly a buzzy spot in the late 1980s and early 1990s, passionate locals are once again encouraging sensitive, sustainable tourism. On a par with Amalfi in the beauty stakes, the sleepy town offers more affordable food, drink and accommodation options than its coastal cousin, with opportunity for adventure – including horse riding, hiking and biking – as well as sea exploration in the shape of kayaking, paddle boarding and private boat tours.
Where to stay
At the top end of the scale in Maratea is the Hotel Santavenere, the region’s only five-star digs, built by the late local count, Stefano Rivetti (whose family still resides in a decadent villa next door). A Piedmontese wool industry merchant, it was his passion to invest heavily in the town and the benefits are still enjoyed by locals to this day.
The hotel overlooking the sea features 34 rooms in classic Italian style, an outdoor pool, private beach club allowing access for sea swims, morning yoga, a poolside pizzeria, a seafront terrace restaurant and an elegant evening restaurant with panoramic views of the coast.
Rooms are quintessentially Italian – romantic, leafy and private, with locally sourced tiles and antiques adding warmth and texture. At the hotel restaurant The Lanterns, guests can experience bold and irreverent flavours through a modern menu. Expect contemporary Italian dishes such as pasta with lamb ragout, salty ricotta cheese and tiramisu.
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For those on a budget, there’s a host of more affordable options. The four-star Hotel Murmann with a pool, spa and e-bikes on offer is reasonably priced.
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Just as charming is the Bed and Breakfast Nefer at around £86, with stunning gardens overlooking the sea and decorated in typically gorgeous Italian style. There’s even the option to cook on a BBQ at the hotel if you don’t fancy eating out and are trying to keep costs low.
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What to do
A kayak tour along the coast is a must when the sea is as glittering and clear as it is around Maratea. Book in with local experience group Indigenus Experiences and Fly Maratea, where charismatic tour guide Enrico will guide you around the coast, showing off a selection of Maratea’s 131 marine caves. Amp up the ambience with a sunset kayak tour, complete with an aperitif.
Stop off for food at Lanterna Rossa at Maratea’s port. It’s headed by local chef Dario Amaro who’s passionate about locally-sourced, fresh ingredients. How does fettuccelle with scampi and coffee or herring carpaccio with raspberry sauce sound?
From the gardens of Hotel Santavenere, you’ll spot one of Maratea’s most famous inhabitants: the 22m high Christ the Redeemer, sitting atop St Biagio mountain, next to the Basilica San Biagio, an 11th-century church. Similar in stature to Rio’s iconic Christ, but different in style, this incarnation of Jesus, created by Bruno Innocenti in 1965, faces inland, with open hands to signify how he is in service to the local community.
Yes, everything is about community here. You can learn this first-hand at a traditional grass rope-making workshop. It’s hosted by some local nonnas who are the few remaining people in the area with knowledge of the intricate skill that was used to create ropes for the local fish merchants to use on their sea-faring expeditions.
Class leader Angelina talks about how the grass is harvested on the local hills, before being steeped in water for days to make it pliable. Next, the fun bit – bashing the rope with a wooden mallet, before twisting it to create a rope. A visit to their local community centre, funded by the Italian government who are keen to continue these ancient traditions, shows that the humble ropes are transformed from rudimentary strands into modern artworks, furniture, fruit baskets and coasters. It’s a great way to sample some authentic Maratea culture.
Where to eat
Maratea offers a wealth of culinary experiences. Stop in for dinner at I Sapori Di Marianna, translated as “The Flavours of Marianna”, named after the mother of the family-run kitchen. The courses unveil simple delights such as roasted vegetables, pasta, seafood and an incredibly more-ish aubergine parmigiana. Marianna’s son and his girlfriend are on hand to serve dishes and suggest delicious local wines to savour, while the dinner stretches on well into the wee hours.
And when in Italy, do as the Italians do. Which is to say, eat lots of delicious gelato. Run by Emilio Panzardi, Emilio’s Gelataria has been serving up natural scoops from freshly squeezed fruit and sustainable dairy since 2006 and offers the perfect reprieve during a sunny afternoon exploring the town centre.
How to get there
EasyJet has just launched direct flights (starting July 13) from London Gatwick to Salerno’s newly-opened airport, operating twice weekly with prices as low as £27.99 one-way.
You can also do the more traditional route. Most UK airports fly direct to Naples with a flight time of around 2 hours and 45 minutes. Then take a ferry or taxi to Amalfi (around two hours).
Read more: The best holiday destinations in Italy
