It was on holiday in Italy in 2022, after perhaps a little too much wine, that the decision was made: Mirjam Peternek-McCartney and her husband, Mark, would take a year’s sabbatical – with their (then) 10- and 13-year-old sons, Lukas and David. “We told the kids in the morning and after that we couldn’t back out … They were excited and it all started to feel more real,” says Mirjam, who lives in the Cotswolds and runs a PR company.
While the couple had discussed the idea of taking extended time out from their daily lives before (they had been on sabbaticals together and lived abroad), Covid brought what was important to them into sharp focus – spending time together as a family and travelling. With Mark turning 50 and David’s GCSEs not too far away, it felt like a now or never moment.
“It was a midlife crisis with other factors mixed in. We felt we had to grab this window. The children’s schooling and how my business would run without me were the biggest worries. But colleagues and the school were very supportive.”
Initial thoughts were of heading to Asia, but in the end South America won out – a continent none of the family had ever been to. The idea was to start in Colombia and head south, to the tip of Patagonia in Chile, and then up the Atlantic coast to Buenos Aires, travelling on public transport or by car. A year was scaled back to eight months, at the school’s request. The planning started in earnest and they set off in September 2023.
“The research was a big part of the fun,” Mirjam says. “We watched films and documentaries and read books about the places we wanted to visit. I wanted to do it all as sustainably as possible, too. We decided to stay away from tourist haunts and explore less well-known sites, and to use local guides and firms.”
Deciding on set days for schoolwork was important. Monday to Wednesday each week were “school days”, while Thursday to Sunday were travel days. School subjects were divided between parents (with extra online tuition for maths and sciences). “It gave us a rhythm and structure,” Mirjam says, “and the chance for us to do some work as we travelled, too. We stayed in places with three bedrooms, so there was one spare for working in. Internet connection was always good.”
Among several highlights was a stay at the Tambopata Research Center in the Tambopata national reserve, a remote rainforest lodge in the Peruvian Amazon. The family joined in citizen science projects, took night walks through the jungle, listened to talks on macaws by resident biologists and learned about indigenous medicine.
“It was amazing for the boys. David particularly loved working on the moth traps, going out for hours to help the researchers; it was so educational.
“One of our guides had previously worked in logging and illegal gold mining – it was almost the only way to earn money in the area – so it was good to see how tourism was providing work and having a positive impact.”
Driving the 770-mile Carretera Austral in southern Chile, one of the most remote long-distance routes on the planet, was a proper adventure through spectacular scenery. “Allow at least two weeks – you need time to explore – and book ferries at least two months in advance, as the road crosses fjords that are only passable by ferry,” advises Mirjam.
In Patagonia, the family visited seven of the 17 parks on the Ruta de los Parques. Pumalín Douglas Tompkins park, with its millennia-old alerce trees, rare orchids and waterfalls, was a favourite, where they stayed in a cabin on the fjord at the Lodge Caleta Gonzalo, designed by conservationists Kris and Douglas Tompkins.
Preferring less touristy places, they skipped the Galápagos Islands and instead went to Bahía Bustamante in southern Argentina, an abandoned 1950s seaweed farm that’s now a tiny, sustainably run lodge. “We felt like we were in a David Attenborough documentary,” Mirjam says. “We went to Islas Vernaci to see penguins, sea lions and marine bird colonies, and hiked to deserted beaches. With only 11 cabins, you have the wildlife to yourself, and it’s much more affordable than the Galápagos.”
Northern Argentina proved a hit – especially Estancia Pampa Grande, a working ranch. “It was expensive, but worth every penny. We went riding with the gaucho, herded cattle and the kids helped weigh them (a maths lesson!). Northern Argentina is under the radar and in need of tourists,” Mirjam says. “The salt plains here are a good alternative to Bolivia’s overrun Salar de Uyuni, too.”
Supporting community and Indigenous tourism where possible led to some of the best experiences of the trip. In Peru’s Sacred Valley, where they stayed for three weeks, they made friends with local families, and took part in community-led trips in the mountains with La Base Lamay, whose founder, Franco Negri, is developing a new model for responsible tourism. “We learned how climate change is affecting harvests, and what they are doing about it.”
In Lima, they joined a female-led tour with the Shipibo community, focusing on their culture and art. “Our guide, Mila, was very knowledgable and we spent time with Indigenous artist Wilma Maynas, learning about symbolism in her work – it was one of the best things we did,” says Mirjam.
To help cover the cost of the trip, they rented out the family home, and with careful budgeting spent the same as they would have in the UK, despite Chile being more expensive than expected (Mirjam thinks Asia would be more affordable). Longer stays in cheaper accommodation (self-catering and shopping locally helped keep costs down) were balanced by occasional treats.
Travelling by bus was easy and affordable, particularly in Peru, and while they hired a car for parts of Chile and Argentina, they only took one flight – from Colombia to Peru, because of unrest in Ecuador. Of course, there were times when being together grated. “When we were bickering, I realised we needed more adult company and they needed time with other children. A visit from my sister-in-law helped. Other options are to get in touch with local schools or sports clubs to see if your kids can join in; we met families who did that.”
The eight months passed quickly, and in April the family returned home. “They easily slipped back into their lives and friendship groups, and their grades haven’t dropped, which was a relief,” says Mirjam. “Taking a sabbatical allows you to step back, and seeing the world that way was invaluable for the children – it was such an enriching experience that they will remember for ever. We learned a lot about ourselves, about us as a family, and the boys had the time and space to discover new interests, like a love of photography and conservation. There’s naturally a lot of fear around it before you go, but if you have a desire to do it, I definitely say go for it.”
And would they do it again?
“Absolutely! We have our sights on Japan, maybe when Mark turns 60. Who knows, maybe the kids would even come again … if we paid!”
Top 10 tips for a family sabbatical
• Have set work/school days and days for travelling. Do a mix of home schooling and world schooling (ie focusing on whatever interests the kids en route, from mangrove forests to Amazonian spiders). Home schooling is tiring for kids, so four hours a day is enough.
• Houses/flats work better than hotels, as you can cook. Ideally, have an extra bedroom so kids can study uninterrupted.
• Go in shoulder season (fewer tourists, plus it’s cheaper).
• Don’t race: you save money and kids need breaks. Stay longer in some places and go more in-depth.
• Avoid “Top 10” and “must-visit” sights – going off piste helps avoid overtourism and spreads tourism dollars.
• Try to choose community-, women- and Indigenous-owned companies (avoid multinationals as the money goes overseas).
• Pack light. We had two T-shirts, two pairs of trousers and two fleeces each. Invest in quality rucksacks and hiking boots/jackets.
• Playlists and audiobooks are essential for long journeys (educational ones, so kids learn without noticing). Absorb yourself in the culture of new places by reading English editions of local media, not UK-centric news sources.
• Spend money on experiences and good guides, not hotels – but occasionally treat yourself. A spa or thermal bath after many days of hiking is bliss.
• At dinner make time for long conversations – and ban tech. You’ll be amazed how much kids share and how they process the myriad new experiences.
Mirjam Peternek-McCartney
