At the end of each year beauty experts give their predictions for the following 12 months. From manicurists guiding us on the nail trends to be on top of as we head into Spring, to the hair trends that will see us through each of our salon visits. Dermatologists get in on the act too - they give us an indication of the facial procedures that will be at the top of everyone's treatment lists, as well as the must-have ingredients to include in our skincare routines. At the end of 2023, multiple skin experts predicted that one of the biggest ingredients of the year would be ectoin.
As we approach spring, we've already seen a number of big product launches drop and those in the know were right, ectoin is appearing on more and more inci lists.
But what is it and why should we be on the look out for it? We sat down with some of the industry's most respected skin experts to find out.
What is ectoin?
Ectoin is a extremolyte, which is a protective molecule that safeguards organisms from extreme and harsh environments. In the case of ectoin, it does this for a specific strain of bacteria discovered in 1985 in a salt lake. It protects that bacteria by creating a protective shield that stops UV, heat and pollutants from inflicting damage. It was found later on that it could do the same thing for skin and it's set to become the skin barrier's new BFF.
What does ectoin do to the skin?
"What doesn't it do?" should be the more appropriate question. Ectoin has a lengthy list of skin benefits. "It's known as a "natural moisturiser" that can help hydrate and soothe dry, irritated or damaged skin," says Dr Eirini Merika, Consultant Dermatologist at Montrose London.. By creating the same type of protection as it does to the bacteria, which Dr Merika dubbed a "hydro shield", it prevents water loss from cells, enhances skin moisture and hydration and regulates cell turnover.
Quite a list of talents for one single ingredient. Dr Malvina Cunningham, a Consultant Dermatologist, says that it's a unique ingredient for that very reason: "It hydrates in a similar way to hyaluronic acid, it protects the skin in a similar way to antioxidants and it soothes the skin in a similar way to ingredients such as bisabolol." Dr Bei Bei Du Harper, another dermatologist, really likes it as an alternative to bakuchiol because of how much it supports the skin barrier, calms inflammation and helps protect against UVA damage.
Who would benefit most from using ectoin in their skincare?
The beauty of ectoin and its barrier-supporting powers is that it works for every single skin type. However, if you have dry, dehydrated or sensitised skin - we're talking tightness, dullness, redness and visible creases on the face - then it's time to start seeking out ectoin next time you go skincare shopping, because you are going to see the difference the most.
Dr Merika suggests that even those with inflammatory skin conditions, like atopic dermatitis, could also use products with ectoin thanks to its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. Dr Cunningham adds that it makes a great midlife ingredient, because of "its abilities to hydrate, protect and soothe the skin."
How do you use ectoin in your skincare routine?
The beauty of this ingredient is that it can be formulated into any product type, but Dr Cunningham says that it's most effective in creams and serums. Which is handy because it can now be found in some of the best face serums on the market.
Products formulated with ectoin
In a nutshell, ectoin strengthens the skin barrier, boosts hydration and soothes inflammation. You can see why this is considered one of the most sought-after ingredients of 2024.
Dr Maryam Zamani, founder of MZ Skin is a huge fan of ectoin and its powers for skin-good. "It's excellent to combat pollution, provide blue light protection and to nurture the skin microbiome while also regulating water loss so moisture is balanced." She included it in her Anti-Pollution Hydrating Mist, which she recommends reapplying throughout the day to provide a shield against daily pollution. It's ideal on holiday too as a refreshers.
And Begin is the newest prescription skincare brand and its first product to launch is The Revolution Serum-in-a-Cream. Ectoin features in the formula alongside Oat Kernel extract and niacinamide, to nourish and moisturise the skin so that it can better handle the punchier tretinoin and azelaic acid ingredients.
New skincare brand Awvi is a science-led, genderless offering that provides a inside-out approach. Each product, of which there are three, and an ingestible supplement, contains ectoin. The Power Serum aims to hydrate, lift and smooth the complexion.
As we now know that the ectoin is a key ingredient for supporting the skin barrier, it is not a surprise that Byoma has included it in its new Barrier+ Repair Treatment. It's a rich and buttery cream that those with over sensitised and dry skin will feel the benefit from immediately. In fact, this is one of the best moisturisers for dry skin we've tried.
Ceramidin is Dr. Jart's skin barrier-loving range. Whilst it has an existing, hard-working moisturiser that soothes dry skin and locks in moisture, its Ecoin-Infused Cream is aimed at those with extremely dry skin that's flaky and uncomfortable.
Yes, this falls into the haircare category, but it's applied to the scalp, so it's technically a skincare product. Ectoin is used here to soothe the dry and irritated skin that's causing falking. Can be used after the best shampoo for dandruff for best results.
Dr Sam Bunting designed this rich formula with red and irritated skin in mind. It's soothing, hydrating and prevents the skin feeling tight. Ectoin plays a big part in that.
iS Clinical's retinols are hugely popular amongst the beauty elite thanks to its efficacious formulas. The brand's newest offering: Retinol + Emulsion 0.3 is no different. The brand purposely included ectoin to minimise the side effects that are often associated with retinol use. Clever.
