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The Canberra Times
The Canberra Times
National

Drinks Review: 4 Pines Aussie Wheat Ale leading the trend

THE WHEAT LIFE

Aussie Wheat Ale, 4 Pines Brewing Company, Brookvale, NSW, 4.7%

$22 per six-pack

Josh Leeson

OBVIOUSLY a team of marketing boffins at Asahi got together and decided Aussie wheat ales were going to be the beer trend of 2022. Five of Asahi's acquired craft beer brands - Matilda Bay, Mountain Goat, Pirate Life, Green Beacon and 4 Pines - have all released Aussie wheat ales this year. It might sound like overkill, but thankfully each brand has delivered a slightly different result on what is a pleasantly sessionable style. 4 Pines' Aussie Wheat Ale is potentially the pick of the crop using wheat grown in Victoria's Mallee region. If you've had bad experiences with those sickly banana-ish German Hefeweizens, don't worry. This Aussie wheat ale tastes closer to a Belgian saison with zesty hints of lemon and the hazy appearance delivers a malty finish. Will the Aussie wheat ale craze catch on? Asahi believes so, and with 4 Pines' version it's certainly possible.

THIS BEAUTY STANDS OUT

Echigozakura, junmai daiginjo sake, 15%, 720ml

$36.99

Karen Hardy

There's something about sake that's just a little refined. A good one is smooth and gentle on the palate and this one is just that. Brewed with yamada nishiki rice polished to 50 per cent, this delicious drink is representative of the niigata tanrei style - smooth, light and fresh. Aromas of white flowers and rose petals follow through to a palate of low acidity and balanced body with a clean and crisp finish. Sure, it's fabulous with Japanese dishes, but this one stands on its own, drink it with everything. And the bottle is so beautiful you'll want to repurpose it. Available from Dan Murphy's and BWS.

SWIFTLY IMPRESSIVE

Printhe Non-Vintage Swift Cuvée Brut

$50

5 stars (out of 6)

John Lewis

PRINTHE has gained a great show record with its Orange Region bubblies and this one has been judged the champion in the past four NSW Wine Awards and recently won the 2022 Sydney Wine Show best sparkler trophy. With a base of 75% chardonnay and 25% pinot noir, it has a fine, persistent bead and lemon hues. The front palate displays elegant nectarine flavour, the middle palate introduces citrus, green apple, mineral and brioche characters and steely acid refreshes at the finish. It's at printhiewines.com.au, the Molong cellar door and bottle shops, and will drink beautifully now with lobster and glass noodle triangles. Printhe was established by former Sydney Coopers and Lybrand accountant Jim Swift and his wife Ruth, who made a tree change to Molong in 1978. Their sons, Ed and David, took over in the 2000s and the vineyards on the upper slopes of Mount Canobolas are more than 1000 metres above sea level and are among Australia's highest and coolest.

ALLYN WHITE EXCELS

Boydell's 2021 Reserve Chardonnay

$45

5.5 stars

John Lewis

IT'S easy to see why this wine won 2022 Sydney Wine Show's best small producer's trophy. From Daniel and Jane Maroulis's 4.8-hectare East Gresford Allyn Riverbank vineyard, it shines brassy gold and has scents of jasmine and expressive, ripe peach flavour on the front palate. The middle palate features fig, loquat, mineral, nougat and creamy oak and a finish of slatey acid. Made under contract at First Creek winery by ace chardonnay maker Liz Silkman, it is at boydells.com.au and the cellar door and restaurant in Morpeth. Ideal with paella and cellar for eight years. Daniel and Jane and their four daughters came to the Hunter in late 2016 when they bought the 85-hectare former Camyr Allyn grazing and vineyard property of John and Judy Evers. Jane is from Morpeth and Bourke-born Dan worked in farming and grazing at Narromine and Dubbo and they have built a diverse Hunter wine and hospitality operation, last June adding the historic Paterson Tavern at Paterson.

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