Around five years ago, my friend Esther Walker asked me to do her make-up for a shoot. Before I’d even begun, she issued a series of orders, the most emphatic of which was reserved for her lips: she wanted them to not be too pronounced, and barred me from using any lipstick at all.
I followed her orders despite their being at the time quite niche; lipstick was at its zenith, and nearly all make-up wearers partook.
But now, well, times have changed. Gloss is back, balm is once more popular, and lipstick comes in many, many different finishes to cater to the many, many different sorts of lipstick wearer.
The latest incarnation is low-key, sling-it-on-without-checking-in-the-mirror, there-but-translucently-so territory, and top brands, including tastemakers like Lisa Eldridge, Violette Fr, and Victoria Beckham Beauty, are championing them.
I messaged Esther yesterday to ask her to summarise why she thinks this sea change is happening and she sent this back: “1) I am super shabby and cannot be bothered to re-apply – so I need something that fades evenly 2) my mouth is absolutely enormous, if I have anything more than a sheer tint I look like I am going to devour you, but the thing is I still want to feel like a glamorous 1940s siren applying her lipstick! Sometimes these things are not rational. So I need a balm/colour hybrid that makes me feel like a normal person able to apply lipstick, but does not require upkeep or make me look like a mouth-monster.”
If you feel similarly, I’d suggest trying the below.
Violette Fr Bisou Jelly
This is a matter of proportions – there is a hint of lipstick running through the centre, but hugging it is a jelly that means the result is sheer with a bouncy, but not shiny or even especially sheeny, finish.
Buy now £30.00, Violette Fr
Victoria Beckham Beauty Posh Balm
Things are a little more shiny here - but only fractionally. In essence what you get with these four is a nourishing balm with colour running through it alongside pH tech that’ll enhance the colour of your own lips in what is undeniably delightful packaging.
Buy now £30.00, Victoria Beckham Beauty
Lisa Eldridge Baume Embrace Melting Lip Colour
As make-up artist to many an A-Lister, Lisa Eldridge is a seasoned pro when it comes to colour, and while she’s dialled down the saturation in these balms, they still deliver different hues successfully, making them the best option if you want something that thoroughly sits between lip balm and lipstick.
Buy now £30.00, Space NK
Clinique Almost Lipstick in Black Honey
This is the recommendation Esther asked me to pass on, telling me she considers it the OG and was thrilled it’s made a comeback. She’s not the only one; 178.8 million TikTok videos mention it so clearly it’s been embraced by a whole new generation.
Buy now, Look Fantastic
Lanolips Tinted Balm SPF30 Nude
The addition of SPF 30 makes this one noteworthy, as does the reliance on lanolin to stop moisture from leaving the lips while it’s on. The finish for this one? Decidedly shiny.
Buy now £8.99, Lanolips
Glossier Ultralip High Shine Lipstick
Ignore the lipstick thing in the name – Glossier themselves describe this as “part balm, part tint, part gloss,” and that is precisely what they deliver. I’m devoted to the shade Trench, which is a peachy pink that never fails to make me feel pulled together without looking too done.
Buy now £22.00, Space NK
Nivea 3in1 Caring Beauty Lip & Cheek Balm
A winner for many reasons. First, the price. Glorious. Second, the fact that they encourage it being used on both lips and cheeks (you can of course do this with most lip shade provided you’re not very prone to break outs, but it’s good to have the official green light). Finally, the buttery, sheer, hydrating washes of colour are second to none.
Buy now £3.69, Boots
