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Dolce & Gabbana paid homage to Madonna with conical bras in its latest show, while the singer looked on from the front row.
Madonna was seated alongside supermodel Naomi Campbell, wearing a full-length custom D&G black lace veil and gold tiara: she was a living muse for the show’s blend of eras and attitudes.
She wasn’t the only inspiration for the spring/summer 2025 collection at Milan Fashion Week – there were also elements of Marilyn Monroe in the Fifties silhouettes and hairdos.
When the label was founded in 1985 by designers Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce, it quickly became synonymous with elaborate animal print, pinstripes, black lace and florals.
The duo’s recent collections have attempted to overhaul this stereotype, with their last all-black monochromatic collection featuring boxy blazers, silk lapels and lacy camisoles, closed by none other than Campbell.
The latest show married both past and present D&G aesthetics, with sultry silk and demure lace dominating, whilst the iconic sheer florals and pinstripes also made a comeback.
As the show began, rich Italian strings played filled the blackened room until descending into breathy dance music. Panels opened to reveal models posed like Hollywood starlets on a bright white stairway: each wearing a conical-shaped bra and bleach blonde Marilyn (or Madonna) curls.
Madonna’s iconic cone bra from the 1990 Blonde Ambition tour was originally designed by Jean Paul Gaultier. Dolce & Gabbana reimagined this iconic symbol of female empowerment and sexual liberation for the show, with sultry metallic satins and boudoir-ish lace.
Corsetry, long a cornerstone of the brand’s aesthetic, was reinterpreted with exaggerated sharply structured bustiers, while hourglass silhouettes and vintage-inspired skirt suits looked to be inspired by Fifties style stars like Marilyn Monroe and Grace Kelly.
The fabrics were sumptuous: satin, silk, lace and tulle were adorned with intricate sparkling embellishments, while sheer layering gave a modern spin to things.
The accessories added another layer of Fifties glamour, with cosmic gold earrings and clutches adorned with gold hardware. The beauty looks were sharp and refined, taking inspiration from mid-century Hollywood, while keeping things relevant with fresh and glowing skin.
Dolce & Gabbana blended opposing attitudes of the periods through prim cardigans layered over lace slips and polished trench coats opened to reveal bras and dangling garters.
The final models wore only nude colours, showcasing burlesque corsets, tasselled dresses and silk bodysuits, with model Mona Tougaard closing the show in a pale peach silk conical corset with exposed garters.
As the designers said their thanks, they ran to Madonna who hugged and congratulated the pair.
Dolce & Gabbana certainly reaffirmed its place in Milanese fashion with this collection: pushing the boundaries while honouring tradition.
