In a post-Covid era, so many pleasure palaces have become casualties, and unfortunately Spasso at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok is one such place.
But the end of “one of the longest running high-end nightlife establishments in Bangkok” brings new pleasures in the form of Gaston. The Parisian-inspired bistro has opened in the same spot that once housed Spasso and is under the helm of the rather jovial French chef David Senia.
“The cuisine of Gaston is bistro chic, where attention is paid to the produce, the seasonality of the ingredients and the execution of the recipes. We have a menu that is always in movement, anywhere around 20 dishes. Though these will change according to the seasons and what they bring. And, not just seasons in Thailand, but in France, too,” says the chef.
The menu reflects a down-to-Earth concept, where the terroir is defended with conviction, complete with a well-stocked wine list, French-inspired cocktails, Parisian cafe music and a casual atmosphere, despite the slightly glamorous Bordeaux red-and-gold palette. “A bistro is where you can eat everyday, mainly because of the easy French dishes like the plate du jour. You will not break the bank by eating here daily. It is an ambience that cements the relation of the diners and kitchen,” chef Senia adds.
Since I am playing “Emily In Paris”, (though I actually eat), begin with an amuse bouche in the form of the Pissaladière provençale (B180). The onion tart is made with puff pastry, anchovy and black olives, and is served with a mesclun salad. Whenever I see Oeufs mimosa (B180) aka deviled eggs on a menu, I have to order them. At Gaston, hard-boiled eggs are served with Dijon mustard and tarragon, though if you wan to zuzh it up, get the Oeufs mimosa a la truffe (B320), which arrives with the addition of in-season black truffle.
Good bread is a must at any French establishment, and chef Senia serves a sourdough the classic way — butter, salt, black pepper and fresh red radishes. If you haven’t tried the magic of bread and butter with the addition of red radish, now is the time to do so. A dish that is often seen on menus in Scandinavia is the Duo de saumon (B450), which is salmon gravlax and a salmon rillette served with condiments like sour cream, dill and shallots. A deconstructed starter if you will.
Though extremely indulgent, the Foie gras de canard au torchon (B720) is a dish that I could eat day-in and day-out. Duck foie gras is generously spread on a brioche and topped with fig chutney and Bob’s your uncle! As a prelude to the mains, I always order the quintessential Escargots à la bourguignonne (B590). Six snails are cooked in herb butter and delivered to the table sizzling hot and I am ever so impatient to dig into them, though often at the cost of burning my tongue.
Taking pride of place in the La Formule (B1,890) section is the true Parisian-style bistro experience of French entrecôte. The grilled Australian Black Angus ribeye (300g) is bathed in a rich Beurre aux herbes (herb butter sauce, which is my go-to). The other sauce choices are Sauce au poivre (peppercorn sauce) or Sauce vierge Provençale (a French salsa-like sauce). Alongside the steak comes a Salade verte aux pignons de pins or green salad and roasted pinenuts in a mustard vinaigrette, and unlimited homemade hand-cut fries, which need to be dunked in that sauce, too.
Other options under La Formule, at the same price, include Côtelettes d’agneau grillées or three grilled Australian lamb chops; Gambas grillées or four grilled tiger prawns; and Filets de Loup de mer poêlé or two seared sea bass fillets.
There are other staples like a selection of freshly-shucked French oysters, including Fines de Claire, Parcs de l'Impératrice, Gillardeau and David Hervé Spéciales, which are served on a bed of crushed ice with traditional condiments, rye bread and fresh lemons. The selection of regional classics and delightful bistro staples includes Fromage de tête, sauce charcutière or headcheese terrine (270), Calamars farcis, piperade or Stuffed calamari with minced pork, tomato, bell pepper confit (B580), Bouchée à la Reine with puff pastry, veal sweetbread, chicken oyster, morel and cream (B780), all prepared using traditional recipes.
To wet the palate in-between bites, there are French-inspired concoctions such as Lillet spritz (sparkling wine, Lillet Blanc and gin) or Red Summer (red wine, vermouth, lemonade and fresh fruits), among others. Gaston also offers a wide selection of French natural and sustainable wines handpicked specifically for the bistro.
If you do have room for dessert, indulge in my all-time French favourite of Crêpes Suzette (B310) made with Grand Marnier and orange, and served with vanilla ice cream. There is also the Baba “Gaston” aux pruneaux (B310) served with plums marinated in Armagnac syrup and whipped cream.
Gaston is open for dinner every day from 5:30 to 10:30 pm, and for lunch at weekends and on public holidays from 12:00 to 2:30 pm. Call 02-254-1234, email bangkok.grand@hyatt.com or visit.grandhyatterawanbangkok.com.
