Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor is now a regular at Milan Fashion Week and with each season the designer is exploring newer designs and silhouettes. His latest collection titled Fantasm explored the fusion of science and fiction, challenging traditional beliefs and presenting new solutions for the physical world. The collection reimagined established gender norms, embraced a balanced approach to masculinity and femininity with comfortable silhouettes and DIY elements. Inspired by subcultures and past eras, it combined 1970s sci-fi prints with vibrant florals and crop circle patterns. We spoke to Kapoor on his new collection and what keeps on inspiring him season after season.
1. Tell us about the inspiration behind the Fantasms collection and the different elements within the curation?
DK: Fact or fiction? was the question when we started out with this collection. All those mind-bending theories of who we are, where we come from and what are we capable of- were the building blocks of the collection. It combines sci-fi cover art from the 1970s and a myriad of past eras and subcultures in a contemporary format. The versatile color palette pairs mood-boosting brights along with broody neutrals- each carefully selected for their psychological impact upon adornment.
2. How does the collection Spring'24 challenge established gender norms?
DK: The brand projects a seamless mix of masculine and feminine elements such as power and love, to birth a new aesthetic, where oneness is key and archaic gender- roles are abolished. I enjoy putting the collection together where emotion is key and gender has no ground.
3. How did you arrive at the choice of the name Fantasms for your collection?
DK: We are all products of fantasy, we are all magical and how we evolve simply based on our imagination- as I read more and more about who we are, where we come from and what are we capable of, “Fantasms” was just perfect. It reminds us of our true nature and through subtle hints we push reminders down the collection.
4. The collection commits to 40 per cent of upcycled fabrics, and where are these fabrics sourced from?
DK: A giant part of our upcycled initiative is domestically sourced along with recycled technical fabrics that are sourced from around the world. The combination of natural and artificial births a new aesthetic that explores the balance between the safe and familiar; the outlandish and the experimental.
5. How does the collection celebrate Indian craftsmanship and tell us a little about the specific techniques used?
DK: Building new embroideries is one of the most exciting parts while working on the collection. My team and I enjoy working with our skilled artisans- exploring new techniques, odd placements and new combinations, using an eclectic mix of materials. Our hand embroidered product accounts to 80% of our bestsellers globally. Additionally, we explored handloom fabrics this season- the unlimited techniques and possibilities that one can achieve is fascinating.
6. In your perspective, which country stands out for having the most fashionable and style-conscious population, considering Milan's status as the fashion capital?
DK: They are all around the globe and India is booming with the new creative energies. My current favorite would be Copenhagen as I am enjoying a more minimal space at the moment.
7. Given the availability of your collection in Europe, Japan, South Korea, the UK, the Middle East, the USA, and other key cities, how do you handle the challenge of catering to the unique demands of each of these different markets?
DK: By tapping into emotion. Borders, gender and social or political restraints don’t affect our creative process. My team and I always aim to tap into emotion- “how do you wish to feel?” is key. We buy into a product or an experience simply for how it makes us feel and that is exactly what we aim to infuse through each product.
