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Bibi Hutchings

Crab has never been more decadent

In "Bibi's Gulf Coast Kitchen," columnist Bibi Hutchings takes you on a culinary journey across the coastal south. Come for the great food writing, stay for the delicious recipes.

Delicate, rich crab meat is the shining star in this meal.

The shrimp very much play a supporting role  or no role at all, if you choose to omit them. It is a brilliant recipe either way and will become a favorite for entertaining, even if you cut the recipe down to accommodate an intimate party for two. 

Although this is a simple dish, it is elegant and decadent. There is something impressive about it, which is surprising considering once your seafood is prepped, it requires very little effort. The flavors are so harmonious that it is hard to pinpoint exactly what makes it so special (other than the crab meat), but I can't help but think it might be the luscious, expertly seasoned béchamel.

The béchamel — the glorious, other-worldly white sauce in this recipe — is seasoned with a whisper of white pepper, nutmeg and a few other ingredients, all rounding out to complement this dish impeccably.

It is a simple sauce to make, but I was taught to do a few things in just this way: First, the butter should be put into your saucepan cold, straight from the refrigerator and heated on low. Second, don't whisk in your flour until the butter is just starting to brown. Third, the cream, milk, or half and half, should be warmed before adding it next. And lastly, do not overcook it. Take it off the heat as soon as it is thick and smooth.          

My favorite way to eat this is with a fork in one hand and a hunk of French bread in the other. Serve a salad as its own course beforehand, so that once this main makes it to the table, you can give it your full attention through to the last bite. Some have served this over rice, but I believe that is a mistake. The flavors are too delicate and are drowned out by the rice. Trust me, bread is the way to go. 

I learned early that when preparing and serving crab meat, the goal is to not overpower it. Less is always more and this recipe showcases it like few others. Each ingredient pulls its weight, adding exactly what is needed to enhance without being too bold or brazen. 

Everything about this recipe says, light touch: From the subtlety of the seasonings to the rich, creamy, lightly textured mouthfeel, you find yourself slowing down and savoring every bite.

I'd love to tell you that when I made this for supper last night, I set the table, lit a few candles and created the kind of atmosphere I believe this meal deserves, but my day ended later than usual and those details fell away. Instead, this scrumptious dinner romanced me in an entirely different way. Comfortable and piled up on the couch, it was like having champagne in your pajamas.

Not the way I envisioned the evening, but amazing nonetheless. 

When you are ready for a fine, fine meal: This is it. Choose it for a celebration dinner or for a cozy night in. It is a splurge for your taste buds, no matter the occasion.           

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