The Gurnard’s Head could make a claim for being the best country pub in the land, certainly west of Bristol.
Perched on a clifftop, the roaring Atlantic is nearby; lush farms and winding lanes surround it. A coastal walk pre-lunch works well. Or go for dinner — so long as a room is booked or someone is driving. Outside and the pub is cast in striking yellow; within, everywhere is charming wood and rickety things, the odd fisherman or local artist perched drinking ale as tourists sit in the art-filled dining room next door.
To eat, John Dory in dukkah, mussels in a Thai-style broth, a rump of Cornish beef with Stilton, salad and roast potatoes. The cooking is sound and the fires warm. Truly, this is a magical pub, where cares disperse as the sea and hills restore.
Zennor, Cornwall, TR26, gurnardshead.co.uk
