Apple TV+'s new historical drama, 'The New Look,' delves into the lives of France's prominent mid-century fashion designers, offering a fresh perspective on Coco Chanel. Unlike previous portrayals that depicted Chanel as a tortured artist or rising underdog, this 10-part series presents a more controversial angle: Chanel as a secret Nazi agent.
While the show primarily focuses on Christian Dior's post-World War II impact on haute couture, it also sheds light on Chanel's recruitment by Nazi-German military intelligence in 1941. This revelation, detailed in Hal Vaughan's book 'Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel's Secret War,' unveils Chanel's deep involvement with the Nazis and her lifelong antisemitism.
Chanel's upbringing in Catholic institutions exposed her to antisemitism, which Vaughan believes influenced her views. During World War II, Chanel's relationship with a German-British aristocrat linked her to high-ranking Nazi officials, aiding in her personal endeavors and business dealings.
Chanel's collaboration with the Nazis extended to a failed espionage mission in 1943, where she was tasked with delivering a message to Winston Churchill on behalf of a Nazi spy. Despite her arrest post-liberation, Chanel denied any involvement in Nazi operations.
After Vaughan's book revealed her wartime activities, the Chanel Group acknowledged her past, emphasizing her relationship with the German aristocrat. Despite post-war scrutiny, Chanel reopened her couture house in 1954, solidifying her fashion legacy.
'The New Look' offers a nuanced portrayal of Chanel's controversial past, now available for streaming on Apple TV+ with subsequent episodes releasing weekly through April 3.
