For the best part of a decade, it's been boarded up, a forlorn site looming large at the top of Eden's main street.
However, in a couple of weeks, amid much anticipation, the revamped Hotel Australasia will finally re-open.
Earlier this week, I had a sneak peek at the multi-million-dollar restoration. And boy, has it been transformed since my last visit here five years ago when I tiptoed across rotting floorboards and tried hard not to read the crass graffiti strewn across many of the walls.
Before the South Coast landmark closed in 2010, it was nicknamed "The Snake Pit" - and for good reason. Peter Whiter, who along with other locals successfully lobbied hard for the pub not to be demolished on heritage grounds, reveals "everything happened in that pub, and by everything, I mean everything you can imagine - and not just fights".
However, when the new-look pub opens on December 17, I suspect the only squabbles will be among patrons at the door, jostling to be the first inside to see the remarkable makeover for themselves.
Actually, you can't really call it a pub anymore. It's more an upmarket bar and heritage hotel all rolled into one. It's Jugiong's Sir George Hotel meets Henry Jones Art Hotel in Hobart, with a healthy dose of South Coast flair thrown in.
Sure, not everyone will be willing to fork out the $350-$850 (and more) for a night in one of eight bespoke rooms, but many locals and visitors will pop in for a stickybeak, and, of course, to indulge in a drink and bite to eat.
"While our fine dining restaurant won't open until early to mid next year, there will be other dining options from December 17," explains Hanna Marshall, the operations manager for Core Asset Development, owners of the hotel.
With its dazzling chandeliers (yes, they are real crystal), drool-worthy furnishings (look out for the vintage writing desk in the Green Room) and antique art boasting a distinct nautical flavour, today's Hotel Australasia is a far cry from the days when first owner, entrepreneur Sabina Pike, opened the pub in 1904.
Pike was attempting to cash in on the prospect of Bombala being named as the site of the national capital, and, due to its proximity, Eden becoming the port for the capital.
We all know Bombala missed out on the capital gig, but Pike's establishment fast became one of the South Coast's best-known accommodation houses.
Of course, with Eden long being a fishing stronghold, the hotel was always destined to become a regular haunt for anyone wielding a rod.
Peter Whiter reports that a fishing vessel, the Straight 8, was built for the Impeys, the third family to own the hotel, who employed Bob Warren as skipper.
As part of the arrangement, the chef at the Australasia was given first dibs on the catch, and Warren could keep or sell the rest.
Warren also took guests, usually city slickers, staying at the pub out on fishing trips. According to local folklore, Old Tom, Eden's infamous orca whale, sometimes grabbed the anchor of the Straight 8 in his mouth and dragged the vessel out of the harbour - at pace.
"Apparently the startled passengers would quickly wind up their lines and hang on for grim life with white knuckles," laughs Whiter. Gee, I bet they did.
It also became a hub for big game fishing. In fact, when in 1936, a Mr H Bothwick of Victoria returned to town with a 240-pound (109-kilogram) marlin, he triumphantly strung his catch from the top deck of the hotel.
"Eden celebrated its first sword fish last week" screamed the headline in The Southern Record and Advertiser (Candelo) which further reported that Borthwick's antics prompted a series of sword-fishing parties" at the hotel.
Not surprisingly, the Australasia was also a popular port of call with other sportsmen, including test cricketers.
The Southern Record and Advertiser reported on February 26, 1937, that Gubby Allen (the visiting English captain) and Arthur Mailey (noted Australian cricket sketcher) both bunked down at the hotel enroute to Melbourne for the fifth and final Ashes test that year.
When signing the visitor's book, Mailey swiftly drew a delightful sketch depicting "Allen when he loses the toss". And for the record, yes, Gubby did lose the toss, and England lost the match by an embarrassing innings and 200 runs. In fact, Gubby may have indulged in a few too many at the Australasia, with his bowling being taken to the sword by a certain Don Bradman who blasted 169.
With the demise of the once rich (in every sense of the word) tuna fishery and gradual loss of its forest industries, in recent decades Eden's prosperity has waned and tourism has long been lauded as Eden's future.
Although the surge in whale watching and the number of passenger cruise ships which now dock at Eden has seen that dream begin to be realised, both these drawcards are limited by their seasonal nature. Meanwhile, the revamped Hotel Australasia has the potential to lure a new generation of visitors to Eden every single day of the year.
Like many developments in small towns, the renaissance of the Australasia hasn't been without controversy, but if it's as successful as it promises to be, Eden's most prosperous days might still be around the corner.
Whether or not we will once again see monster marlins suspended from the hotel's front balcony, well that's another story.
More: www.hotelaustralasia.com.au or 0455 275 125
Pull up a bar stool and look out for these...
Calling cards
Like many large buildings constructed in regional Australia at the turn of last century, all the bricks for the Hotel Australasia were made on or near the site. "During the renovation, every brick was salvaged so we could re-use them," reveals operations manager Hanna Marshall. "After they were cleaned up, we found lots of little animal prints, especially those of possums, left in the bricks - they must have walked over the bricks before they'd dried." In the main bar is a feature wall displaying some of these bricks.
Beaut Bell
Walls lined with historic photographs of many fishing vessels that have called Eden home over the last century aren't the only reminder that Hotel Australasia was once a popular watering hole for thirsty seafarers. Taking pride of place on the bar is a bell from the P&O Ship SS Himalaya. If you ask nicely, the bar staff can tell you lots of trivia about the bell, including that Arthur C Clarke completed his book, The City and the Stars, on board the cruise liner during a voyage to Sydney between September 1954 and March 1955. Oh, and if you plan to ring the bell, ask first, because it's tradition if you ring it without permission, you must shout the bar.
Garden Bed
Out the back of the hotel, past the knock-out beer garden, will soon be a garden bed. Literally. "As homage to entrepreneur Sabina Pike who grew vegetables here for the first hotel kitchen in the early 1900s, we have sourced [an antique] bed frame which will be the centrepiece in the herb and veggie garden," reveals Marshall.
Snake Pit
The pub was given its nickname "The Pit" in 1916 when its owners built a service station next door, complete with the first motoring pit on the South Coast. When the hotel began to attract a "rougher" clientele in the mid-late 1900s, this nickname morphed into the "The Snake Pit".
WHERE IN THE SNOWIES?
Rating: Hard
Cryptic Clue: Not far from a curious attraction, also flooded
How to enter: Email your guess along with your name and address to tym@iinet.net.au. The first correct email sent after 10am, Saturday December 3, wins a double pass to Dendy, the Home of Quality Cinema.
Last week: Congratulations to Glenn Schwinghamer of Kambah who was first to recognise last week's photo as foot access to part of the De Salis cemetery at Cuppacumbalong, near Tharwa. Glenn, who has been a perennial bridesmaid in this competition, just beat John Feint to the prize.
It was the first week for a long time that incorrect answers outnumbered correct ones, with many readers misidentifying the scene as part of the Tuggeranong Stone Wall that once marked the boundary between the two large properties.
Special note to Bob and Roanna Gardiner of Isabella Pains who report, "We usually go on an annual honeymoon, but last year's was 'pandemically' close to home and included a bike ride to Tharwa and a respectful walk around this beautiful cemetery."
SPOTTED
In the foyer of the Hotel Australasia is this striking hand-crafted Japanese (Hokkaido) Bear. It was presented by the Showa Shipping Line to the Eden Fishermen's Club in 1982 to mark 15 years of Harris-Daishowa involvement in Eden's forestry industry.
MAILBAG
Thanks for all your reports of bogong moths (The bogongs are back, November 26) that have landed in my inbox over the last week. Keep them coming!
CONTACT TIM: Email: tym@iinet.net.au or Twitter: @TimYowie or write c/- The Canberra Times, GPO Box 606, Civic, ACT, 2601.
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