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The Independent UK
The Independent UK
National
Thomas Adamson

Chloe confirms Gabriela Hearst is leaving, as eyes look toward Fendi show to cap couture

Copyright 2023 The Associated Press. All rights reserved.

Fashion whispers have finally been confirmed: Gabriela Hearst is stepping down as the creative director of Maison Chloé after a brief but impactful three-year tenure. Hearst, the first female designer with multicultural roots (Uruguay and United States) to lead a Parisian fashion house, has been a transformative force at Chloé since her appointment in December 2020.

Here are some highlights of the last day of fall couture shows on Thursday that will include Fendi later in the day:

GABRIELA HEARST BIDS ADIEU TO CHLOÉ, LEAVING A GREEN LEGACY

Despite the relative brevity of her tenure, Hearst leaves an indelible imprint on Chloé. She ushered the house into a new era of sustainability, turning it into the first European luxury fashion house to secure a B Corp certification. Hearst’s sustainability agenda included innovative initiatives such as the integration of eco-friendly materials, a ground-breaking resale program and collections focusing on climate-forward solutions.

Her leadership at Chloé sparked considerable growth and a seismic shift in the fashion house’s ethos. Riccardo Bellini, president and CEO of Chloé, praised Hearst’s vision, passion and commitment to values, crediting her with scripting a “new and vibrant chapter” in the annals of Chloé.

Upon her departure, Hearst expressed a sense of fulfillment and gratitude, emphasizing the importance for shaping a more sustainable and purpose-driven future for the fashion industry. She said she took pride in the “positive change” effected by her team during her tenure.

Hearst found herself in a lineage of illustrious designers that have shaped the fashion house’s unique style and identity. Her predecessors include revered figures in the industry such as Stella McCartney, Karl Lagerfeld, Clare Waight Keller, Phoebe Philo, and most recently, Natacha Ramsay-Levi.

Chloé, founded in 1952, is often credited with pioneering the concept of ready-to-wear, which revolutionized the fashion industry.

The finale of Hearst’s journey at Chloé will be marked by the presentation of the Spring/Summer 2024 collection on Sept. 28, drawing the curtains on an era marked by sustainability, innovation, and diversity.

CARTIER UNVEILS GLITTERING HIGH JEWELRY PREVIEW AT ICONIC RITZ HOTEL

Cartier, the legendary French jeweler, offered an enticing preview of its latest high jewelry collection, “The Journey Begins Again,” at the famed Ritz hotel on the Place Vendome. Surrounded by champagne and luxury, attendees were privy to a selection of 50 pieces from the collection to be unveiled in August.

Cartier’s enduring legacy stretches back to 1847, when Louis-Francois Cartier transformed the jewelry world with his intricate designs and craftsmanship. This legacy shone in the latest collection, which showcased seven pieces in two innovative series: “Unda” and “Voltea.”

The “Unda” series, named after the Latin word for wave, featured a necklace bedecked with 1,092 diamonds and 67 emeralds. Set in white gold, the piece dazzled with its intricate wave patterns.

The “Voltea” series brought a burst of color and modernity. Derived from the concept of voltage or electricity, the series showcased a striking necklace in pink gold and coral, a material notorious for its fragility. The segmented design of the necklace beautifully echoed the pattern of an electric wave.

IMANE AYISSI’S VIBRANT CULTURE FUSION

Cameroon-born couturier Imane Ayissi’s latest collection, presented at Paris Couture Week on Thursday, delivered a punch of vibrant color and cultural fusion, reflecting his unique approach to couture that marries African inspirations with European codes.

The presentation saw a profusion of bright hues and eclectic style. Painted colored eyebrows and round orange earrings lent an edgy boost to the collection, amplifying the designer’s knack for theatricality honed from his early career in the Cameroon National Ballet.

One standout piece was a top creatively constructed from a myriad of vermilion flowers, a nod to the dynamic African wrap, contrasted with striking blue pants. The ensemble exemplified Ayissi’s signature fusion of styles and his ability to transform traditional African fabrics and concepts into couture.

A light green satin couture dress with a cascading cape offered a graceful take on European fashion norms, while an unstructured yellow dress with a bold fuchsia bow on the midriff further underscored Ayissi’s playful use of color.

JEWELS MEET ART: REPOSSI’S ‘ANTIFER’ INSPIRES ARTISTS

In an intersection of contemporary art and high-end jewelry design, Repossi celebrated the 10th anniversary of its “Antifer” collection with an exhibition on Paris’ chic Left Bank. The legacy Italian brand, rooted in fine jewelry craftsmanship since 1920, transformed a lush garden into an elegant stage for the milestone.

The “Antifer” collection, recognized for its minimalist lines and architectural inspiration, has become an emblematic part of the Repossi brand over the past decade. Reflecting this aesthetic, the evening showcased a curated collection of works from six international artists, each offering a distinct artistic interpretation of the “Antifer” design.

The event explored creative dialogue between art and jewelry, with guests enjoying a relaxed garden party atmosphere complete with a DJ and art displays inspired by the jewelry collection.

The curated artworks, together with the “Antifer” collection, will be available for public viewing at the Amelie, Maison d’art Gallery starting July 7, 2023.

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