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Newcastle Herald
Newcastle Herald
National

Chef to open Bistro Penny in Newcastle's East End

Bianca Isgro, Joel Humphreys and Nic Wong at Bistro Penny on Bolton Street in Newcastle East. Picture by Jonathan Carroll
Joel Humphreys at Bistro Penny on Bolton Street in Newcastle East. Picture by Jonathan Carroll
Bianca Isgro, Joel Humphreys and Nic Wong at Bistro Penny on Bolton Street in Newcastle East. Picture by Jonathan Carroll
Joel Humphreys, Bianca Isgro and Nic Wong at Bistro Penny on Bolton Street in Newcastle East. Picture by Jonathan Carroll
Bianca Isgro, Joel Humphreys and Nic Wong at Bistro Penny on Bolton Street in Newcastle East. Picture by Jonathan Carroll

Opening the French-inspired Bistro Penny in Newcastle's East End will be the realisation of a dream for chef Joel Humphreys.

He's worked at high-profile restaurants such as St John, Rockpool and Bistro Moncur but has always wanted to open his own restaurant in Newcastle. And at Bistro Penny, expected to open in late October, he will be returning to his classically French-trained culinary roots.

Diners can expect simple, "French bistro" style cooking over fire at the former bank site on Bolton Street which once housed the hatted Restaurant II.

Having working as a consultant for other venues over the past few years, Humphreys is looking forward to returning to the kitchen.

"I'll be in the kitchen every day, cooking over a three-metre by one-metre grill, celebrating the simplicity of great produce and primitive cooking over fire," he said.

"The menu will have the flavour profile of a French bistro with a bit more of a modern take on how it's served.

"Share-style dining will be encouraged. The menu will have a lot of large formats - whole flounder, large cuts of beef - this is how I like to eat. Whole fish cooked on the bone with seasonal accompaniments."

The wine list will focus on small producers, local and abroad, and will explore classic French varietals alongside emerging Australian gems.

Bistro Penny also marks a reunion with Humphreys' long-time friend and collaborator, Nic Wong (Lucky Prawn). The two met at Rockpool, later shared the reins at Sydney's Bodega and established CRANK, a consortium of leading chefs raising money for community charities like Stephanie Alexander's First Kitchen Garden and the Cancer Council.

"Working with Joel again feels like coming full circle," Wong said.

"We've both grown so much since our days at Rockpool and Bodega, and now we're channelling that experience into creating something truly special at Bistro Penny."

Designer Bianca Isgro (Bob Hawke Beer & Leisure Centre, The Drydock Hotel) will be carefully restoring the space and transforming it into a "simple and snappy" neighbourhood bistro.

While stripping the interior of its commercial fit-out, heritage brick, sandstone and joists were exposed, revealing what Isgro described as "a beautiful shell to work within". Beams have been uncovered that were imported for use on the Harbour Bridge.

The fireplace will be the "beating heart of the venue" which anchors the room. Working around it, design elements will include "rich timbers, fractured light through amber glass, a speckled terrazzo, textured mustard walls, oxidising mix-metals and generous burgundy leather stuffed banquettes that hug, wrapping around the room".

"We've relied on a lot of the original fixtures of the building. There's a beautiful wooden balustrade that winds up the staircase, we've got an original brick wall, cedar beams and floor ... some great bones that we've been able to accentuate," Humphreys explained.

"In the future we will open up the second level and that will be angled more towards functions and weddings."

Humphreys "can't wait" to introduce diners to Bistro Penny, having worked on the project for the past 12 months.

"This is the restaurant I've always wanted to open in Newcastle," he said. "I took some time out of the kitchen with the intention of coming back and doing this in a pretty high-pace environment.

"I've been in Newcastle for five years now and I've taken my time finding the right space and the right people, and the right concept as well. French bistro cooking holds a special place in my heart, and to do it over fire and with my own interpretation is pretty exciting."

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