Revealing the history and charm of lesser-known, rural regions of Spain is a true passion for Spanish hotelier Roberto Garcia. He set up Castilla Termal Hotels in 2004, offering wellness and spa escapes in imaginatively restored historic buildings across northern Spain. There are now four hotels, with a fifth to follow this summer.
Five-star Castilla Termal Monasterio de Valbuena opened in 2015. It is a 79-room and suite hotel with extensive spa facilities in the dramatically beautiful, 12th-century Santa Maria de Valbuena, the best-preserved Cistercian monastery in Europe.
Where is it?
It is deep in historic, rural countryside and well off the path for even the most travelled. The hotel is in Castilla y León, Spain’s largest region, two hours north of Madrid’s international airport. This is a place of vines, wooded hillsides and impressive castles perched up high. Castilla Termal Monasterio de Valbuena is at the heart of Spain’s prestigious Ribero del Duero wine region in the tiny village of San Bernardo, 45 minutes east of the medieval city of Valladolid and its high-speed train station.
Style
Medieval monastery meets a light touch, contemporary design. Monasterio de Valbuena is a state-owned and heavily protected monument. It is the historic heart of the hotel with its church and St Peter’s Chapel is an awesome beauty, all massive pale stone walls, soaring ceiling heights, characterful cloisters, and wooden beamed refectories. You can almost sense the chanting monks still pacing through the grounds. Castilla Termal has added a well-designed extension that includes new bedrooms, spa and extensive meeting rooms. This is an impressive venue, which has hosted 70 weddings in the past year. However, as the youthful and dynamic general manager Diego Sanz Bailén points out, most guests fall for the romance and want the historic rooms for their events.
Facilities
Come for the history but stay for the spa. The Valbuena Spa is one of only three Clarins spas with thermal waters. With 16 treatment rooms, a wonderfully large indoor thermal pool with jets, jacuzzis and bubble seats, and an outside heated pool, it’s a delight. For an immersive and magical treat, book into the Chapel of San Pedro Experience. This involves an exact copy of the monastery’s original and beautiful St Peter’s Chapel (which is still there today for a visit) filled with medicinal waters. Couples can book time alone to enjoy the hammam (also known as a Turkish bath or steam bath), sauna and ice fountain.
Extracurricular
There are 302 accredited wineries in the Ribero del Duero, a good number of them within 30 minutes of the hotel. Taking a tour of a handful for tastings is by far the most popular outing. History buffs can tour the 10th-century castle in nearby Peñafiel, now a Museum of Wine, or the cathedrals of Burgos and Segovia. A substantial number of guests stay put, however, to explore the hotel and its grounds. These include smart lines of fruit and vegetables in the hotel’s organic kitchen garden; four and a half acres of vines that produce around 20,000 bottles of Castilla Termal Converso wine every year; and rare black chickens, whose blistering white eggs feature on the menus.
Take one of the hotel bikes to ride through the vineyards or cycle the Duero Route, the 450-mile cycle and hiking path that follows the Duero river. The shaded path, filled with butterflies and birds, passes directly beside the hotel.
Food & drink
Tuck into the local Ribero del Duero wines, including Castella Termal’s own Converso Crianza red: you won’t be disappointed. The three dining areas, with two different menus, include an especially atmospheric bodega with a brick barrel ceiling, the monks’ own wine cellar several hundred years ago. The informal bistro-style bar has indoor and outdoor tables where dishes include Spanish favourites – croquettes, plates of glistening hams and cheeses. The more formal restaurant, Converso, focuses largely on local seasonal produce elegantly served. Breakfast is excellent. It involves a buffet filled with yoghurts, cheese and hams, jams, juices and fruit from the area. There are also dainty pastries and huge loaves of bread, as well as dishes to order from the kitchen, including churros and eggs Benedict.
Which room?
The 79 rooms and suites include Superior, Deluxe and Junior Suites. Top billing goes to two especially spacious suites: Count’s Suite, with its own terrace and wide country views, and Treasure Suite, with its own sauna. Rooms are divided between the historic building and the new wing that connects seamlessly with the original monastery. Junior Suite 161 is spacious, atmospherically moody and set behind a supersized wooden door on the first floor of the cloisters. The smaller rooms in the newer wing are a good choice, too: they are cosy and well-furnished with peaceful rural views. Beds are large and comfortable, towels and linens are good quality, toiletries are locally made – the hotel is rightfully proud of its sustainability ethos. All rooms also have tea and coffee-making facilities.
Best for...
Couples and families come for spa breaks, wine tours, restorative weekends of good wine and food among the vines and countryside of Spain. Bringing five-star luxury and international service standards to a rural and unpopulated area of Spain has its challenges. But, while not all the staff speak fluent English, they have a gentle charm that is hugely appealing.
Details
A three-night stay on the Thermal Escape, including breakfast for two people and unlimited access to the thermal pools (subject to availability), costs from €726 (£622).
Calle Murallas, San Bernardo Valladolid, Spain +34 983 683 040
Recepcion.valbuena@castilletermal.com
