Bryan Martin has made beer out of smoke-tainted grapes; trucked grapes across the Nullabor to make The Long Way Around wines which were very well reviewed; and now, even though there's a shortage of wine from those troublesome vintages, he's confident the next few years will be exceptional.
It's this adaptability that's been the key to his success. He's not afraid to experiment, to push the boundaries, to take what he's given and try something new.
He remembers one of the first field blend wines he made. A field blend is made of a range of different grape varieties, harvested and fermented separately then combined to make a final wine.
"James Halliday said something like 'I don't get what he's doing' sort of thing," Martin remembers.
Halliday does now, as Martin has been short-listed for Halliday's Winemaker of the Year Award, the 2023 winners will be announced on August 3 in Melbourne. That's probably a little unfair on James Halliday; the nation's leading wine critic for decades has been well aware of Martin's wines for years now, constantly rating them highly against the nation's best.
For Martin, the nomination is something of a surprise. He's up against some stiff competition: Adam Wadewitz from Shaw + Smith; Xanadu's Glenn Goodall; Greg Follett from Lake Breeze Wines, Ian Hongell, Torbreck; Natalie Fryar, Bellebonne; Rob Mack, Aphelion Wine; and Tom Carson, from Serrat.
Martin's just out at Ravensworth, in Murrumbateman, doing what he loves. He and his wife Jocelyn bought the block in 1999, planted the first wines in 2000. The first wine was a 2005 shiraz viognier, inspired by his time at Clonakilla where he worked alongside Tim Kirk from 2004 until early 2020. In 2018 his 2012 riesling won wine of the show at the Canberra International Riesling Challenge.
The Canberra District's Nick O'Leary has also been shortlisted in the Best Value Winery category. Judge Jane Faulkner says O'Leary's wines represent "quality and deliciousness in equal measure", the White Rocks riesling from the Westering vineyard is excellent value at $38.
There is also a People's Choice Award where the public can vote for their favourite winery experience. Voting is open until Sunday, July 24. Vote now for a Canberra District winery at winecompanion.com.au
More than 8000 wines have been tasted by the Halliday team, more than 50 new wineries have been reviewed.
