The results of the 2023 Good Food Awards are in, and one Canberra restaurant took on some of Sydney's finest to come out on top.
Such and Such, in Canberra's Constitution Place, was named New Restaurant of the Year across all of New South Wales and the ACT on Monday evening.
As well as picking up a hat in the awards, Such and Such took out swanky Sydney CBD two-hatters Clam Bar and Brasserie 1930 for the title.
For Good Food Guide editor Callan Boys, Such and Such is one of the most exciting places to eat in Australia right now.
"Whether you're keen for a quick pasta or longer innings featuring perfectly roasted duck with fish-sauce caramel, Such and Such never skimps on comfort or creativity," Boys says.
"It represents everything that's fresh and thrilling about dining across NSW and the ACT right now."
Opening in January this year, Such and Such was the latest venture from Ross McQuinn, Dash Rumble and Mal Hanslow - who are the team behind Pilot, in Ainslie.
It was a chance for the team to flex some different muscles, with a menu filled with plenty of share plates that walk that line between fine dining and flexed meals.
"Such and Such is fun, creative, and unique in its offering to the market," Canberra Times reviewer Chris Hansen said when he visited in April.
"You can go for a big night, drop in before the theatre or just swing past by yourself for a small plate of something delicious. It's accessible, interesting, and open to what you make of it."
Such and Such's sister restaurant, Pilot, also walked away with two hats - for the second year in a row - while Onzieme, Raku, Rebel Rebel, Italian and Sons, Morks, Bar Rochford and Mu Omakase all walked away with one hat.
"Our reviewers visited all of Canberra's splashy new openings, such as Koto Dining in the revamped Lobby building of Parliamentary Triangle, and were too left often disappointed with food and service that didn't match the price tag," Boys says.
"One reviewer even reported a chef having an audible meltdown in the kitchen and storming out of the restaurant - which shall not be named - mid-service."
While Canberrans don't need to be told that the capital is home to some stellar food spots, Boys is loving that the city is home to one of his favourite places for a cocktail (at Bar Rochford), the best sandwich he's had in years (from Sandoochie) and the nation's greatest cinnamon bun (at Under Bakery).
"A new generation of talent is transforming Canberra into one of the most exciting cities to eat in Australia," he says.
"Yes, I just used "exciting" and "Canberra" in the same sentence. It almost certainly won't be the last time."
(Since Boys is giving the Canberra food scene some love, we'll let that comment about Canberra slide. This time.)
This year's awards also saw the introduction of the Critic's Pick tick symbol.
Given to select venues across NSW and the ACT, it's designed to highlight places with delicious food and a unique offering that reviewers love but just don't quite reach the 15/20 score for a hat. Places like Paranormal Wines in Campbell.
"Give me the gold-standard Welsh rarebit for $11 at Paranormal Wines over a middling $140 tasting menu any day," Boys says.
