As someone with an impressive skincare cabinet of peptide-boosting products and various bottles labelled “happy oil” and “sleep cream”, I was fascinated when I first came across psychodermatology, a field of study that addresses the interactions between the skin and mind. In the past I’ve investigated how botox might be affecting our ability to communicate, how stress accelerates skin ageing and how beauty standards are killing our sex lives, but I’d never come across the term “neurocosmetic” before. The term made so much sense given everything I’d been learning about the connection between the brain and the skin.
Neurocosmetics are the latest in a host of wellness trends to hone in on the link between the topical products we use and our mood. Broadly, the idea is that as skincare products come into contact with nerve endings within the dermis, the active ingredients in those products influence your brain chemistry. There are several applications for this idea, but you’ve no doubt seen an uptick in products and clinical beauty treatments that claim to “boost mood”.
Aesthetic doctor and GP Dr Priya Verma explains that the concept of neurocosmetics is derived from the understanding that there is a brain-skin axis. “Our body’s stress axis – also known as the HPA axis – found in our central nervous system, is also found in the skin,” she says. “We ultimately have the same machinery in our skin as we do in our brain, which may be related to the fact that the skin and brain originate from the same embryonic layer during our fetal development in the womb.”
“There is thought to be a bidirectional relationship between our skin health and our mental state. I regularly see patients in my practice who describe experiencing worsening eczema, rosacea flares, and acne breakouts during periods of heightened stress in their lives. These skin symptoms can be explained by the release of the stress hormone cortisol, which can lead to increased inflammation in the skin and a reduction in skin barrier function,” she explains.
What are neurocosmetics?
Skincare for your brain is by no means a new invention – if you rub anything on your skin it’s likely to have some kind of effect. The skin is our largest organ and it does a great job as a shield, soaking up or deflecting whatever comes into contact with it. Herbalists in ancient cultures were aware of this and noted the effects of certain plants on the skin and the subsequent effect on our mood. However, we’re now seeing the concept of the brain-skin axis drawing a lot more focus and neurocosmetics celebrated as a science-backed solution for a skincare-obsessed society experiencing more acute mental health issues than ever before.
The neuro boom might be taking place because we’re all generally more aware of what we’re putting on our skin. Narratives around clean beauty and low-tox living have left us worried about whatever harmful chemicals might be leaching into our bodies from bleach-dyed tampons and highly-scented creams with outdated formulas.
Or perhaps an increased awareness of mood and mental health has led us to the point where we’re happy to seek a solution to anxiety in a face serum. A better understanding of the prevalence of mental health issues is certainly not a bad thing – though some have argued younger generations are a little too in touch with their feelings, possibly to their detriment.
It could be that the primary reason for the popularity of neurocosmetics is the enormous shift we’re currently witnessing in how consumer products are marketed. Every brand seems to be launching a wellness product that hinges on the successes of the feel-good, self-care revolution. From pimple patches to oil for dry skin, anything can be marketed as a mood-altering product if it encourages you to take better care of yourself. But how far can cosmetics actually impact our brain chemistry? Is this all just semantics and clever marketing?
Do neurocosmetics work?
Technically, if massaging your face with some unscented oil makes you feel good and gives you a lift, that oil could be considered a neurocosmetic and it could certainly be marketed as one. However, what we’re actually discussing when we use the term is certain ingredients that directly impact the brain, typically those with nootropic or aromatherapeutic properties.
A true neurocosmetic, explains Dr Anna Persaud, CEO of beauty and wellbeing brand This Works, can be synthetic, botanical, or a neuropeptide. “These products are designed to interact with the nervous system, particularly the nerves in the skin and underlying tissues, which both send and receive signals from the brain. By doing so, they enhance overall skin health and influence sensations such as tactile perception and sense of smell, thereby impacting emotions,” says Dr Persaud.
“Neurocosmetics can help alleviate itching and discomfort, manage inflammation and redness, and address stress-related skin conditions like acne and eczema, which are often exacerbated by stress. Moreover, neurocosmetic products have been shown to promote alertness, improve sleep quality, and potentially enhance memory through stimulation of the olfactory bulb. They also contribute to feelings of relaxation and wellbeing,” she says.
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There’s a clear link between our mental state and our skin and this can be characterised in a number of ways. When we’re stressed we might experience eczema, breakouts or conditions like psoriasis might worsen. We might experience puffiness or what’s known as “cortisol face” as stress hormones flood the body in ways we might not be used to. By contrast, when our skin looks and feels good we feel more confident and calm. The skin, explains Dr Persaud, is both a sensory interface and a neuroactive tissue that physically responds to stimuli and sends messages to the brain to help us respond emotionally.
CBD, essential oils and nootropic plants like ashwagandha are all examples of the types of ingredients you might find in neurocosmetics. I’ve been using magnesium body butter before bed for the past six months and maintain that it has helped me to sleep better. I also rub a mood-balancing balm on my wrists every morning before I start work which I always find puts me in a good mood, and I use a cocktail of potions on my face before I start the day.
Dr Persaud explains that when I do these things, my mood is directly influenced through various biochemical and sensory pathways. “Essential oils interact with the limbic system, eliciting emotional responses and altering mood. Additionally, certain skincare ingredients impact mood through their effects on the skin’s neuroendocrine system. For instance, ingredients like niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, which improve skin hydration and barrier function, can lead to enhanced skin health and appearance. This improvement can boost self-esteem and body image, which are closely linked to mood and mental health.”
Can beauty actually influence your brain?
This is all well and good and probably a step in the right direction for anyone looking to maintain a more stable mood, but is it fair to market a CBD face cream as a potential solution for anxiety? After all, skincare might make some contribution to our wellbeing and there certainly seems to be a case for using neurocosmetics, but they aren’t an antidepressant in the same way that an SSRI is. It’s also doubtful that a balm for your wrist might spike your happy hormones in the same way as a run in the park might.
Though I love my magnesium body butter, it hasn’t dramatically altered my propensity for anxiety. I still grind my teeth and clench my jaw if I’ve had a stressful day and I certainly don’t see aromatherapy as a magic bullet, regardless of how much I enjoy using products that smell good. However, there are stronger neurocosmetic treatments that one might turn to in order to treat the physical symptoms of stress, anxiety and low mood.
Botox is a neurotoxin which is used to directly disrupt the chemical signals between the skin and the brain. By interfering with this line of communication it prevents muscles from contracting. Typically we see it used to prevent forehead wrinkles from forming and of course, there are plenty of critics who consider this totally unnecessary, if not damaging to both the skin and brain. However, some studies have shown that botox can affect mood positively by preventing muscle spasms, clenching and soreness in other areas of the body and by influencing what’s known as “facial feedback”.
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Dr Paris Acharya of The Ardour Clinic, a London clinic that specialises in treatments for stress management, explains that “when used in the right way, botox may have positive effects on the brain by indirectly reducing anxious behaviours. While botox is best known for its ability to smooth lines and wrinkles, it can also be used to manage sweating, muscle spasms and other habits. By preventing these behaviours, botox does have a positive role in calming the brain’s response to anxiety, although it of course isn’t a substitute for therapy, coaching and other treatments.”
Dr Acharya explains that facial expressions have a significant ability to affect mood, a phenomenon often referred to as the facial feedback hypothesis. “The brain interprets signals from facial muscles as part of the emotional experience. Smiling activates the release of dopamine and serotonin, the hormones associated with happiness and reduced stress therefore smiling affects your mood in a positive way,” she says. “The act of frowning of course has negative feedbacks and feelings so by reducing the ability to frown, we are reducing the ability to feel those negative emotions.”
While botox may be the most powerful neurocosmetic on this basis, Dr Acharya stresses that it’s not something she recommends as a first port of call for mental well-being. Her co-founder at The Ardour Clinic, registered nurse and coach Anna Miller stresses that “while botox can help prevent certain behaviours, it’s well-known that injectables can sometimes negatively affect mood. These treatments may foster unrealistic expectations, leading to dissatisfaction with one’s appearance and, in some cases, unnatural or undesired results. Additionally, by paralyzing facial muscles, botox can limit the ability to express emotions such as anger or sadness, potentially impacting relationships, self-expression and self-perception.”
The verdict
In short, powerful neurocosmetics, such as botox, should be used with caution and experts recommend seeking more traditional forms of mental health support before considering treatments like botox to reduce the physical symptoms of stress.
Experts also recommend thinking critically about over-the-counter products that claim to be neurocosmetics. The wellness industry can be largely unregulated so if a claim sounds too good to be true, it probably is. While a serum alone might contain ingredients that have been proven in studies to boost mood, it’s worth considering the parameters of that study and how much of a particular ingredient you’d need to use to actually feel the effects.
Miller explains that “many brands have recognised the growing consumer focus on mental health and self-care, influencing their marketing strategies and product naming. While certain ingredients may offer benefits for the brain and overall wellbeing, there is no concrete evidence to confirm they can directly improve mental health.”
Dr Persaud suggests that “the change from traditional naming conventions towards names that highlight wellbeing benefits shows the growing demand for products that don’t just support external skin health but also support wellbeing concerns. In some cases, brands aren’t able to evidence their claims and there is a danger that vague definitions and trending scientific terminology can contribute to misleading customers on the product’s proven benefits.”
There’s absolutely nothing wrong with creating a routine filled with products and habits that are good for you and any small step in the right direction can benefit your overall wellbeing. However, it’s worth remembering that a face cream certainly won’t treat your anxiety by itself and as the neurocosmetic category continues to boom, you should be wary of claims made by brands, especially where mental health is concerned. Anything can be called a neurocosmetic but not everything is a neurocosmetic and even the best products aren’t a panacea.
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