If you were one of the lucky ones to get your hands on a luxury beauty advent calendar, then you’ll know that Augustinus Bader’s the rich cream (£77, Cultbeauty.co.uk) was the highlight of almost everyone’s countdown. The luxury moisturiser was featured in not one, not two, not even three, but four advent calendars in 2024, from Liberty to Cult Beauty, Fenwick to Harvey Nichols – and that’s just the ones I know of.
The rich cream really has become a skincare sensation and, with its unique TFC8 (trigger factor complex) shrouded in mystery, it seemed nigh on impossible that another brand’s offering could ever possibly compare. Naturally, as the nosy beauty writer I am, I wanted to get to the bottom of the patented inclusion. And I’m pleased to say, after much research and scouring the web, I think I’ve solved the case.
So, whether you just want to know the magic ingredients behind TFC8 or your wallet is practically gasping for a silky smooth moisturiser that might rival the likes of Augustinus Bader’s lavish offerings, scroll on – because I’m pretty excited about this affordable alternative.
What is TFC8?
Taken from the patent that Augustinus Bader filed for TFC8, according to Skinskool (a tech-driven beauty platform that takes a deep-dive into the ingredients list of the products we know and love and provides budget-friendly alternatives) the trigger factor complex features 25 components which, for your average individual, can be condensed as such:
How I tested
Integrating both products into my day-to-day skincare routine, I gave each formula seven days of morning and night use to gauge my impressions. I made sure to maintain the same products outside of these moisturisers for both seven-day tests (for example toner and SPF) and applied the creams as my second to last step in the morning (pre-SPF) and final step in the evening.
I paid attention to included texture, feel (immediately, as the day wore on and at the end of the seven days), any shine or greasiness, how much product was required and the appearance of/any changes to my skin over the testing period. Here’s how I got on.
Augustinus Bader the rich cream
The formula
Once I had a base understanding of Augustinus Bader’s TFC8 inclusion, I was pleased to discover that for its hefty price tag, the rich cream features nearly every skincare buzzword going. From vitamins C and E to fatty and amino acids, this cream – on paper – is really going to wake up your skin and leave it feeling rejuvenated and looking its best. Plus, opting for peptides versus retinoids, the rich cream will still work to tackle fine lines and wrinkles but it shouldn’t prompt much of a reaction.
My initial impression of the formula is that it is rich and feels akin to a balm or butter as you rub it into the skin. I was disappointed to find that, compared to competitor ‘rich’ formula iterations (for example Clinique’s moisture surge intense), this one has no stretch and requires at least four pumps to adequately cover an entire face.
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Performance
As someone with oily skin, I was surprised that I needed additional moisture in the form of other hydrating products and I found when applying the cream, it somewhat dragged on my skin.
That said, once all worked into the skin, the moisturiser left me feeling comfortable and hydrated, not to mention layering well with my SPF, foundation and cream blush. I experienced no pilling or product separation on the skin.
Despite the peptides and ceramides, I didn’t see a noticeable change in the plumpness or elasticity of my skin – but I have only been using it for a week. As pictured with my eyebrows raised, the fine lines in my forehead area remained subtly visible and, while I’m 27 and certainly not complaining, I have seen more immediate results from using moisturisers in the past. For £77 and for just 15ml, no less, I might have hoped for something more distinct – though I can’t speak for the cream’s performance long-term.
Buy now £77.00, Cultbeauty.co.uk
Naturium multi-peptide moisturiser
The formula
When comparing Naturium’s multi-peptide moisturiser with Augustinus Bader’s the rich cream on paper, the main differences are the lack of shea butter and ceramides, plus the addition of niacinamide. For slightly more than £20, this offering from Naturium has a whopper list of actives. Of course, when the price decreases you do have to consider the potency of the ingredients included. For instance, what’s the molecular weight of the hyaluronic acid? Is it going to effectively hydrate the skin beyond its outermost layer? These are exactly the questions I wanted to answer in testing.
The Naturium – the brand’s founder is half Korean and acknowledges Korean skincare as a significant brand influence – formula presents a texture that’s entirely different to Augustinus Bader’s the rich cream in its multi-peptide moisturiser. Two pumps were enough to provide the hydration I needed. The inclusion of niacinamide piqued my interest given my shine-prone complexion – but how did it fare in practice?
Performance
The formula absorbed into the skin quickly, and, much like the rich cream, the moisturiser layered well with my SPF and subsequent make-up products. However, as someone with a bad habit of touching my face, I did notice some pilling as a result of the contact.
Surprisingly, I didn’t find the addition of niacinamide to be as effective as I might have liked. In fact, be it hormonal or a result of the Naturium, I saw more blackheads crop up on my skin during testing and a slight increase in my skin’s shine at around 3pm. It’s hard to pinpoint whether I hadn’t topped up my usual loose powder enough or if my sweaty commute was part and parcel of the dishevelled complexion. Plus, to give a little more context, I tested Augustinus Bader’s cream while at home.
One thing I was pleased to see – and hadn’t expected – was the marked difference in the fine lines pictured here versus those after using the rich cream. I can see, particularly towards the middle to left of the image that my forehead appears more plump, with the lines looking less pronounced, too. After just seven to eight days of use, this is undeniably a good result.
Buy now £21.00, Space NK
The verdict: Augustinus Bader the rich cream vs Naturium multi-peptide moisturiser
Ultimately, I have to give it to Naturium on this occasion, with the results of the fine lines (with raised eyebrows) on my forehead evidence enough of the affordable product’s effectiveness.
I must admit, I really wanted to love the Augustinus Bader and – granted – it’s a lovely moisturiser with a good measure of active ingredients but it has a very hefty price tag. So, if the cost of the luxury formula makes you wince or perhaps you were on the fence about making the purchase in the first place, I’d take this as your sign to give Naturium’s multi-peptide moisturiser a whirl first.
