The popularity of so-called hiragai eggs laid by hens that are not reared in cages is rising. The number of retailers and restaurants offering such eggs has also increased in response to the trend.
As the importance of animal welfare is increasingly being advocated by businesses, more consumers are choosing cage-free, barn-reared or free-range eggs, laid by hens reared in a healthier environment than cage-reared chickens.
The Aida Kyodo Yokei Kumiai cooperative in Matsumoto, Nagano Prefecture, for example, has 190,000 caged chickens and 50,000 hiragai chickens, which are kept in a light-filled, well-ventilated enclosure.
Rearing hiragai chickens requires more care than caged ones. However, "As the chickens move a lot, their eggs have a firmer shell and their yolks have a richer flavor," said Mitsuyo Matsumoto, head of the association's quality control section.
Seikatsu-Club, a co-op that has about 400,000 members mainly in the Tokyo metropolitan area, began selling cage-free eggs from the Matsumoto cooperative in April.
Co-op members pay 270 yen for six eggs before tax, higher than a pack of 10 eggs from battery-farmed hens, which is priced at 248 yen.
According to a 2015 survey conducted by the Japan Livestock Technology Association, more than 90 percent of domestic poultry houses keep chickens in cages. In contrast, the number of eggs sold at retailers in Europe, the United States and Australia that are cage-free, barn-reared or free-range exceeds that of conventional eggs, according to the Animal Rights Center. In recent years, major overseas supermarket chains and hotel groups have declared that they will only sell and use hiragai eggs.
"In Europe and the United States, which place importance on animal welfare, consumers also support raising chickens in a cage-free environment," said Chihiro Okada, chief director of the nonprofit organization.
It has become easier to obtain such eggs in Japan as the animal welfare movement, which among other things advocates raising livestock in a healthy environment, spreads.
According to a survey conducted by the Animal Rights Center this year, 51 percent of domestic supermarkets sell hiragai eggs, up from 22 percent found in a similar survey conducted in 2015.
Summit Inc., which operates 115 supermarkets in the Tokyo metropolitan area, started selling hiragai eggs in 2012. "Demand has increased in Japan as [such eggs] have a reputation of being healthier," a public relations officer said.
A 37-year-old from Koto Ward, Tokyo, said she goes to a supermarket that is farther away than her closest one to buy such eggs. "I think it's safer to eat eggs from chickens raised in a good environment," she said. "They're a little expensive, but I hope the price will go down if free-range farming spreads."
Starbucks effect
The U.S. coffee chain Starbucks has set a goal of using only cage-free eggs at its about 20,000 directly operated outlets around the world by 2020, including those in Japan. Starbucks Coffee Japan Ltd. is concerned that it will be hard to meet the deadline because the nation's production of cage-free eggs is still limited.
As part of efforts to expand free-range farming, the Animal Welfare Chikusan Kyokai association based in Hokkaido holds seminars for producers, distributors and manufacturers.
"To introduce free-range farming, it is necessary to renovate facilities," said Hisashi Okuno, secretary general of the association. "It may take some time, but I believe the idea will spread faster if consumer demand grows."
Junko Edahiro, professor at Shizenkan University Graduate School of Leadership and Innovation, said a healthy environment also has a positive effect on the quality of the chicken eggs and the meat. "Having more free-range chickens will benefit consumers as well," she added.
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