Revered food critic and journalist, Jay Rayner, passed a restaurant on Bristol's harbourside for years - it was the Bristol restaurant he 'only ever passed on the way to somewhere else'. However, the newly revived Harbour House has now received a glowing review in The Guardian today (24 July).
And it serves up 'posh onion rings'. And a massive tower of profiteroles.
The historic waterside venue, which used to be called the Severnshed, reopened in August 2020 as the newly revived Harbour House. Offering grilled meats, fish and a Sunday roast, the restaurant and relaxed terrace works with local Bristol suppliers.
Read more: The beautiful Cotswolds 'hidden gem' just 40 minutes from Bristol
Harbour House is less of a home, more of a boatshed, designed by famous Bristolian, Isambard Kingdom Brunel. The venue carries history with each new iteration, having been designed by Brunel whilst he was working on the Clifton Suspension Bridge in the 19th century.
The restaurant has changed hands over time, becoming a staple on the Bristol foodie scene. In the 90s, it was River Café, then Severnshed, and now Harbour House.
Another famous Bristolian laid his mark on the historic building. In 2000, the venue played host to a Banksy exhibition.
As food critic Jay Ranyer entered today's Harbour House, he described the restaurant as a 'delightful place to be'. Writing in his food column for The Guardian today (24 July), he said, "On a warm summer’s day, the broad vaulting dining room, with its greenery and naked rafters, sparkles with sunlight bouncing off the harbour’s waters outside."
Local chef, Ross Gibbens, has rebirthed the menu at Harbour House, making it all about 'seafood from the South West'. Jay Rayner ordered the grilled mackerel fillet.
He wrote, "There is a grilled mackerel fillet, its quicksilver skin bubbled and blistered, on ribbons of pickled cucumber, with mint leaves and the tickle of a wasabi glaze." Also on the menu are posh onion rings and a giant tower of profiteroles.
Jay Rayner wrote, "It is one of those goldfish bowl-sized glasses that hen nights drink out of before the good ideas turn bad, filled with perfectly made golf ball-sized profiteroles, Chantilly cream and a couple of strawberries. Over that is poured a small pan of warm chocolate sauce.
"If you need me to describe the childlike joy of this, then you have suffered a massive failure of imagination." Harbour Hotel has been described as "laidback loveliness" from the esteemed food critic, Jay Rayner - maybe it's time to make it your next harbourside refuelling.
Read next:
