Standing in the centre of Pearl Street, gazing at the Flatiron peaks a mere mile away, it’s easy to see why Boulder’s founders chose to settle here. Wherever you turn, you’ll see these five achingly beautiful slabs of high-rise rock – collectively they form the town’s emblem, talisman and spiritual landmark. Nestled at the foot of the Rocky Mountains, Boulder is part mountainside pleasure town, part frontier outpost, with a spiritual and intellectual streak that runs deep. Artists, students and seekers have all found refuge here, and they’ve moulded the town in their image.
Boulderites aren’t content with merely gazing at the Flatirons; they climb them, and you can too. This is America’s number one sports town, with 45,000 acres of open country, 300 miles of hiking paths and a love of nature that’s both all-consuming and infectious. Walking trails take you from the edge of town right up into mountains, and, if you’re brave enough, onto the cliff-face itself. Most days, you can see for miles. With 300 days of sunshine a year, and humidity regularly at 0 per cent, the air here has a crisp glassiness that shines.
Almost half of the population are students, attracted by the excellent University of Colorado and the unparalleled access to the great outdoors. As well as rugged frontier spirit, this adventure hub has gorgeous bars, stylish coffee shops, and independent retailers full of fine craftsmanship. You could explore Boulder’s charming downtown in a day; but be sure to get beyond it – and spent plenty of time outside.
What to do
Walk the Boulder Creek Path
Wind your way through Boulder’s historic landmarks by following this 5.5-mile riverbed trail, which weaves from the canyon on edge all the way to the city centre. Locals come here to run, hike, stroll, or just space out: from the university campus to a farmer’s market, many of the city’s cultural and culinary highlights can be found along the way. And if all that walking gets too much, you can paddle in the cool, clear waters of the creek itself. In the summer months, locals hop on inflatables or clink beers by the water’s edge.
People-watch on Pearl Street
Pedestrianised, tree-lined and red-bricked, Pearl Street is the epicentre of Boulder’s easy going energy. The town’s collegiate feel, its sense of life lived spaciously, is personified by this avenue. Everybody strolls. Independent bookstores, coffee shops, and bars flourish. A craggy natural backdrop rises behind its homely storefronts, giving the mom’n’pop shops a gorgeous grandeur. Enjoy a locally roasted coffee and bask in the sun at OZO coffee shop, browse through handmade antiques or yards of vintage records, and, once you’ve built an appetite, just take your pick. From June to August, Pearl Street hosts a music festival (“Bands on the Bricks”) featuring local bands playing everything from rock to reggae.
Go to a gig
Housed in a former dairy plant, the Dairy Arts Centre is Boulder’s cultural heart. From claymtion films to live music performances held in total darkness, it brings together the bold, the offbeat, and the downright zany. Don’t be put off by the building’s sleek, contemporary aesthetic: head inside to meet students, activists, and artists, and get a fresh perspective on life in the States.
At Chatauqua Park’s Auditorium – an enormous wooden venue dating from 1898 – you can enjoy live shows with incredible acoustics. From BB King to Ziggy Marley, the Auditorium has attracted some of the biggest musicians around. The Chautauqua also hosts art lessons, plays, films and lectures, with plenty of space to picnic and enjoy views overlooking Boulder.
Explore the Eastern influence
It isn’t just the views and the Midwestern niceness: Boulder’s zen-like calm has authentic Far Eastern origins. Attend a public talk or lecture at Naropa University, the first accredited Buddhist-inspired education institution in America. Named after an 11th-century Buddhist sage, its contemplative curriculum attracts free spirits whose mystical traditions give Boulder a bohemian twist. You can join a free meditation class at Boulder Shambhala Centre, just off Pearl St, with walk-in weeknight meditation. Or pop into one of the countless Tibetan, Nepalese, and Eastern-influenced bazaars, all around downtown.
Either way, make sure you visit the Dushanbe Tea House. Gifted to Boulder by Tajikistan, this ornate tea house looks like it’s been shipped from central Asia’s Silk Road – because it was. This ornate tea house was designed in Tajikistan and then delivered to Colorado, where it was assembled beside the Creek. Sample one of the 100-plus teas on offer at this distinctive landmark.
Where to stay
To immerse yourself in true Rocky Mountain folklore, there’s only one place in town: the Boulderado. Opened in 1908, this is a Gilded Age relic of a hotel, with a classic metal-grille elevator, a carved wooden staircase, and an illuminated stained glass ceiling. But this isn’t a snooty museum: go to the basement for live late-night jazz and hip hop, or grab a leather booth in The Corner Bar and taste one of the best brunches in town. The rooms are less opulent than the communal areas, but great value. Doubles start from £157. boulderado.com
Nothing quite like the Chautauqua tradition exists outside of America. Part liberal arts college, part mystical nature retreat, it began as an education movement in the 19th century, preserving the Native American custom of the same name and bringing people together for free lectures, workshops, and debates. Now, Boulder’s Chautauqua is the largest of its kind west of the Mississippi. Charming wooden cottages are smattered on the hillside to the north of the town, huddled around the great lecture halls and auditoriums. Stay in a cottage on the foothills of the Rockies, not only for the pleasure of the talks, gigs, and retreats at the complex, but also for the unbeatable proximity to nature. Wake up, stretch your limbs, and stroll out the front door: the trailheads start just metres from your porch. One-bedroom cottages from £199. chautauqua.com
For a more homely stay, head to the Bradley Boulder Inn, a cosy downtown lodge just a few moments from sociable Pearl Street. Enjoy complimentary breakfast on the porch, treat yourself to a bath, or warm yourself by the stone fireplace. Doubles from £224. thebradleyboulder.com
Where to eat
Boulder’s food scene is as cultured, quirky, and progressive as the rest of the town. For miles and miles, farmland envelopes Boulder and many of the town’s restaurants source their ingredients exclusively from local producers. As such, you’ll spot the Colorado emblem proudly displayed on everything from coffee to beef jerky.
For ethically and locally sourced food, go to The Kitchen. Bison tartare, crab fried rice, s’mores with mezcal-infused marshmallows – the food is daring and delicious. Suppliers, many of whom are local, are named on the menu. From farmers to ranchers and gardeners, the backbone of Boulder’s food scene can be tasted right here. Make sure you try one of their cocktails, too.
Tradition is still strong here, so if you’re after a taste of good ol’ fashioned Americana head to Lindsay’s Boulder Deli, on the corner of Pearl and Broadway. Inside, there are pastrami hoagies, freshly-baked cookies, and the unmistakable warmth of an all-American welcome. Family-run, friendly and full of locals, it’s well worth visiting.
Experimentation is a lifestyle here, but Israeli restaurant Ash’kara does it best. Here, the famous dishes of the Levant are transformed into spectacles of disguise, display, and celebrations of flavour. Expect dustings of za’atar, pillowy flatbreads, and eye-popping riffs on Israeli flavours. The best dish of the lot? An incomparable fried cauliflower, with marinated feta, pickled raisins, and sherry vinegar cane syrup.
Or if you fancy a little bit of everything, head to Rosetta Hall. Sophisticated and stylish, with a classic horseshoe bar teeming with young Boulderites, Rosetta Hall seems like your typical upmarket wine lounge, but look closer and you’ll see eight pop-up restaurants and two bars serving punchy, authentic food. Thai, Peruvian, Trinidadian: whichever cuisine you try, it’s often locally grown and always big on flavour.
Where to drink
Walk Boulder’s downtown neighbourhood any night of the week, and you’ll know this is a college town. There are bars, microbreweries, and cocktail lounges on every corner.
Locals love Bramble & Hare for its intimate setting, antique furnishings and spellbinding bartenders. Ask, and they’ll whip you up something totally unique on the spot, usually with ingredients sourced directly from their very own farm.
For something fancy, head to St. Julien’s – especially if it’s a Friday night. In the majestic hall of Boulder’s only five-star hotel, kick off the weekend with a whole evening of jazz and swing played by live bands.
If you’re after a cosier night, head down to Licence No 1, in the basement beneath the Boulderado hotel. A vintage, speakeasy-style whisky bar, there’s live music most nights of the week, Open Mic Sundays, and plenty of character.
Boulder is famous for its IPAs, so be sure to visit Boulder Beer, the oldest independent brewery in town. From hazy ale to dark chocolate porter, you can sample some of the city’s most innovative beers. The brewery owns two bars in Boulder, on Wilderness and on Walnut St, hosting live music and plenty of pints on draught. Or try a cup of Kava – a botanical from South East Asia with purported benefits – at The Root Kava Bar. It’s bitter, spicy, and very calming.
Where to shop
We’re back on Pearl Street again, this time with wallet in hand. Brick-paved and pedestrianised, it makes for hassle-free browsing – with barely a big brand in sight. Instead you’ll find artisanal independents, whose well-curated selections make Boulder a brilliant place to shop. Hippie outposts bursting with gemstones and crystals, chic homeware stores, and some of the best outdoor gear in North America.
Head to Canova for jewellery, art and homeware made by local and international artists. Bold, inventive and full of originality, strolling around Canova is like experiencing Boulder in miniature.
In Boulder Bookstore, you could lose yourself for hours. This magnificent, three-floor bookstore has an enormous selection, bags of natural light, and plenty of chintzy armchairs on which to page-turn. It’s the kind of book shop every town wishes they had.
Architectural highlight
Boulder is an architectural smorgasbord: mountain-chic chalets, mid-century-modern museums, ranch-style wooden houses with white picket fences: there’s plenty to enjoy. But if you only see one, make it Arnett-Fullen House, a blend of Gothic and Victorian architecture that’s part The Wizard of Oz, part Goosebumps.
Nuts and bolts
What currency do I need?
US dollars.
What language do they speak?
English, with a hefty dose of Midwestern.
Should I tip?
Absolutely. With 15 per cent considered a “low” tip, expect to pay around 20 per cent in most bars and restaurants.
How should I get around?
Public transport is minimal, but if you’re staying downtown, Boulder is very walkable. With some of America’s most scenic highways nearby, hiring a car lets you experience Boulder’s surrounding beauty.
What’s the best view?
From the 3.6-mile Chautauqua Trail: gaze down at Boulder and across to the prairies and plains surrounding it.
Insider tip?
Layer up: the wind here usually comes in from the west, rising over the Rockies and plummeting into Boulder. The town sits 5,328 feet above sea level, so altitude sickness can also be an issue; stay hydrated, plan for more rest time than you might normally need, and give yourself a day or two to acclimatise.
Getting there
Trying to fly less?
It’s possible to get a cargo ship from Southampton to Wilmington, North Carolina. From here it’s two buses and three trains onward to Boulder.
Fine with flying?
London Heathrow has daily direct flights to Denver – expect to pay around £300 each way. Flights back are less frequent. A taxi from Denver to Boulder takes less than an hour and costs $60-80 (£50-70). But if you want to see the scenery, hire a car and get out into the wild.
