Indian festivals and weddings see a frenzy for grand, traditional jewellery. In addition to gold and precious gems, women now have more options to choose from courtesy a new crop of designers who are experimenting with varied materials and designs.
These artistes challenge stereotypes and redefine minimalism for Indian consumers, crafting dainty, eye-catching pieces. Designs can vary from the moon face, geometric patterns, tribal motifs, traditional weave patterns, musical instruments, among others made in either silver or brass, and sometimes the lesser-seen wood and beads.
Tribe-inspired
Take for instance Goa-based Messiah Craft’s creations that give tribal jewellery an unconventional twist. Made from brass, the brand’s statement pieces such as necklaces (₹1,000 upwards) are not only seen on Bollywood celebrities (Kirron Kher and Farah Khan), but were also showcased at the New York Fashion Week in September 2021. Led by Neelam and Seema Tupar, Messiah Craft draws inspiration from the rural Dokra designs of Goa and Odisha. Neelam says the aim is to make tribal jewellery prominent with an Indo-western tweak. This helps the artisans, as well as their craft, survive. “
A wide range of designs aside, another reason behind their popularity is the fact that they bode well with traditional and contemporary outfits. So whether you are in pant-suit or sashaying into work in a summery linen sari, these single, statement pieces are a go-to option.
For Divya Batra and Pragya Batra of Quirksmith, every piece — be it the nib hairpin or the ear cuff engraved with the infamous Bollywood dialogue mere paas maa hai in Hindi — is designed to reflect an Indian contemporary style. Divya says: “Apart from taking great pride in our design and craft we also encourage our buyers to buy less and wear more. We have a page on our website that suggests various ways one piece of jewellery — say a brooch or a hairpin — can be flaunted.” Divya chooses to use ‘flaunt’ because she believes anything handmade should be worn with pride, as proven by celebrities like Swetha Tripathi, Swara Bhaskar, Shilpa Rao and Faraz Ali Ansari who have sported their collections (₹900 onwards).
Kalash to cupcakes
And it’s not just everyday pieces on offer — there’s a wide range of luxe designs to choose from. Kolkata-based Prism jewellery (₹50,000 onwards), founded by Shilpa Bhinsaria, is known for their trendy inside-outside hoops, octo huggies and solitaire bracelets. “We stick to classic styles and stay away from quirky designs. Our jewellery can be worn by anyone between the age of 15 and 70 years,” says Shilpa who designs them herself, adding that her creations have been worn by Miss Universe winner Harnaaz Kaur Sandhu.
While these jewellery designers cater to a discerning clientele, they are also promoting the ‘Make in India’ tag and ‘Vocal for Local’ mantra. Fun and quirky designs for occasions like a haldi ceremony or a Durga Puja are the focus of A Little Extra run by Diksha Singhi, known for its intricate handcrafted accessories (₹450 onwards). From Goddess Durga’s face to the traditional kalash, and Halloween pumpkins to cherry shaped beads, the brand’s earrings and neck pieces also sport burgers, pizzas, pina coladas, and cupcakes for those looking for something different.
Beaded handmade jewellery has its takers too. Delhi-based Olivar Dar’s earring collection (₹3,000 onwards) is dominated by birds, talismans, sunsets and eyes. Her website also showcases a miniature fruit collection earrings in the of lemon, orange, acacia nut and pineapple.
Keeping it fresh
One cannot say whether it is the material interplay, experiments with colours or an ode to everything vintage that makes these brands popula. Some designs are drawn from the sentiments of that region as seen in the designs by Assam-based jewellery designer Arpit Agarwal that are inspired by the traditions, seasons and icons unique to the State. “Be it the one-horned Rhino, the xorai (tiara) and the kopou phul (garland orchid).... my designs are true to Assamese sentiments and have found takers in people who have lived in Assam and fallen in love with all things Assamese. My other best-seller is the Bihu-nasoni (bihu dancer) earrings,” adds Arpit.
Kesya is another brand that started its journey with art deco-influenced cufflinks and buttons for men and then shifted to trendy lightwear jewellery or women. Geet Ram Lakhani, manager at Kesya, says, “Divya Sikhar and Shivangi Singh are creating the minimalist designs for women who love to be trendy to work or for a night out. Our customers love the stacking option that Kenya’s collections (₹1,500 onwards) offer.” The brand’s charm jewellery collection is a hit with millennials.
What makes this segment different from fashion jewellery? “It is the finish, the workmanship and the thought that goes into the designs,” adds Shilpa.
