Eliete Paraguassu, 42, who is the first candidate from Ilha de Mare to run for state deputy in Bahia, travels by boat with her friends and family from Ilha de Mare to the mainland, in Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 21, 2022. Paraguassu is one of the record number of Black candidates running for state and federal office in October 2022 elections. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli
For the first time in its 132-year history, the Brazilian census now underway includes a question counting members of the "quilombo" communities founded by runaway slaves.
On Ilha de Mare, an island with several quilombos off the coast of Salvador, in northeast Brazil, this chance to be counted is one step in a political transformation for which local organizers have long been fighting.
Marizelha Carlos Lopes, 52, a local fisherwoman and environmental activist, hold hands with her sister and others as they take part in an activity after a gym class near by the sea at Quilombo Bananeiras, in Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia state, Brazil August 22, 2022. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli
"Being part of the census is a strategy for us, a strategy for resistance and change," says 52-year-old Marizelha Carlos Lopes, a local activist and fisherwoman on the island, where 93% of people identify as Black. "One of our objectives is to escape an intentional invisibility."
Her friend Eliete Paraguassu, 42, is mounting another front in the strategy. She is the first woman from the island campaigning for a spot in the Bahia state legislature – one of a record number of Black candidates running for state and federal office in Brazil in this October's elections.
Together, Brazil's updated census and the rising number of Black candidates are part of a slow reckoning with centuries of slavery that ended only in 1888, making Brazil the last country in the world to abolish the practice.
Marizelha Carlos Lopes, 52, who is a local fisherwoman and environmental activist, holds siris after taking the meat off them at Quilombo Bananeiras, Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 18, 2022. Lopes' life, like that of many women living on Ilha da Mare, centers around the sea: she collects shellfish at dawn, shucks clams, and cracks crabs for meat that she feeds her family. "Being part of the census is a strategy for us, a strategy for resistance and change," she said. "One of our objectives is to escape an intentional invisibility." REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli
Quilombos were formed over centuries by enslaved people who escaped forced labor to create isolated, self-subsistence communities in remote forests and mountain ranges or on islands like Ilha de Mare.
Quilombo residents now hope that a proper count of their numbers and more elected voices will open the door to improved social services and guarantees of rights for people and places long left off official maps.
National quilombo association CONAQ has identified nearly 6,000 quilombo territories. CONAQ head Antonio Joao Mendes said government recognition of the communities gained steam under former President Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva two decades ago, when the communities won more formal land rights and support for cultural programs.
Shellfish gatherer Joselia Farias Pedro, 57, searches for siris near Ilha da Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 24, 2022. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli
Lula's presidential candidacy this year presents a stark contrast, Mendes said, with incumbent President Jair Bolsonaro, who has dismantled many of those programs and slowed the recognition of additional quilombos.
Bolsonaro was fined 50,000 reais ($10,000) in 2017 for insulting quilombo residents, saying that "they do nothing" and are "not even good for procreating." An appeals court threw out the case because he was a federal lawmaker at the time.
On Ilha de Mare, quilombo residents have for generations survived on the hard work of artisanal fishermen and fisherwomen.
Census taker Aissa Freitas (R), 22, interviews Elisabete Encarnacao da Silva, 55, at Quilombo Praia Grande, Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 17, 2022. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli
Marizelha's 26-year-old nephew, Uine Lopes, who wakes at 3 a.m. to fish in the crystalline waters surrounding his community of Bananeiras, has proudly memorialized their tradition with a tattoo on his left arm of his grandfather casting a net.
ISLAND OF CALM
With no bridges to the mainland about a kilometer away, residents on the car-free Ilha de Mare get around like their ancestors: on foot, horseback and small boats. Uine Lopes says it feels like an island of calm away from the bustle and violence of the big city.
Maria da Conceicao (C), 62, makes handcrafted baskets while census taker Aissa Freitas, 22, interviews her at Quilombo Praia Grande, Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 17, 2022. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli
In the afternoons, women gather to scrape meat from crabs and clams caught that day, while others weave traditional straw baskets. In the evenings, neighbors often gather for dance or gymnastics classes by the seashore.
Yet the fishing communities say their livelihoods are threatened by pollution from a nearby petrochemical port across the bay, where a boat carrying propane gas exploded in 2013.
An industry group responsible for cleaning up the spill said it was monitoring the bay to protect surrounding communities, but Marizelha Lopes recalls losing an entire season of fishing and tourism due to contamination.
Noemia Farias Pedro, 48, carries a bucket of shellfish she collected back to Quilombo Maracana in Ilha da Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil, August 24, 2022. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli
"There are still no specific studies or public policies that will guarantee our safety," her nephew said. "We have no escape route."
The port authority did not respond to requests for comment.
Frustrated by a lack of answers to what she calls "environmental racism" against her island community, Eliete Paraguassu, who like Marizelha collects shellfish, is making the leap into politics.
Eliete Paraguassu, 42, who is running for state deputy in Bahia, hands out campaign leaflets during an activity at Quilombo Acupe, Santo Amaro, Bahia State, Brazil August 21, 2022. Paraguassu is the first woman from the island campaigning for a spot in the Bahia state legislature ? one of a record number of Black candidates running for state and federal office in Brazil in the October 2022 elections. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli
In the run-up to the Oct. 2 vote, she has traveled to nearby cities to drum up support for her candidacy to the state legislature, with stickers declaring "My vote will be antiracist" and "Justice for Marielle."
The latter is a reference to Marielle Franco, a Black city councilwoman in Rio de Janeiro who fought for racial justice and was shot dead in 2018, in what some have called a political assassination.
Her legacy has been a rallying cry for Black women like Paraguassu. Of the 513 lawmakers elected to the lower house of Congress in 2018, just under a quarter identified as Black – and only 12 of those were women.
Joselia Farias Pedro, 57, collects shellfish near Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil, August 24, 2022. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli
By contrast, 50.7% of Brazilians in the 2010 census identified in the two racial categories that the government statistics agency combines in its definition of "negro," or Black.
Alternating his time between fishing on Ilha de Mare and studying rural education at university, Uine Lopes is one of a handful of students determined to bring the fruits of their research back to the island.
"We need to be aware, to vote for as many Black people as possible who are committed to the fight, who have specific visions for Indigenous communities, quilombolas, fishermen, riverside residents and so many other communities that experience a lack of state support," he says.
Children rehearse for a popular cultural demonstration that recalls the struggle for freedom and the end of slavery, held by Quilombo Acupe's fishermen at the Nego Fugido House, Santo Amaro, Bahia State, Brazil August 21, 2022. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli
Marizelha did not attend school past fifth grade. But watching her nephew combine academic pursuits with service to the community has inspired her.
"I am increasingly convinced that universities are important," she said. "But our resistance and fight are what equips and prepares us for the confrontation." (This story refiles to replace link)
(Reporting by Jimin Kang and Amanda Perobelli; Editing by Brad Haynes and Rosalba O'Brien)
Eliete Paraguassu, 42, who is running for state deputy in Bahia, arranges her hair at her house at Quilombo Porto dos Cavalos, Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil, August 22, 2022. Paraguassu is the first woman from the island campaigning for a spot in the Bahia state legislature ? one of a record number of Black candidates running for state and federal office in Brazil in the October 2022 elections. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli Patricia Santos, 35, poses for a picture as she heads to a campaign activity for her friend Eliete Paraguassu (not pictured), 42, who is running for state deputy in Bahia, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 21, 2022. Paraguassu is the first woman from the island campaigning for a spot in the Bahia state legislature ? one of a record number of Black candidates running for state and federal office in Brazil in the October 2022 elections. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli Eliete Paraguassu, 42, who is running for state deputy in Bahia, laughs as she talks to a friend on a bus on their way back home after a campaign activity at Quilombo Acupe, Santo Amaro, Bahia State, Brazil August 21, 2022. Paraguassu is the first woman from the island campaigning for a spot in the Bahia state legislature – one of a record number of Black candidates running for state and federal office in Brazil in the October 2022 elections. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli Eliete Paraguassu, 42, who is running for state deputy in Bahia, hangs clothes in her backyard at Quilombo Porto dos Cavalos, Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 22, 2022. Paraguassu is the first woman from the island campaigning for a spot in the Bahia state legislature ? one of a record number of Black candidates running for state and federal office in Brazil in the October 2022 elections. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli Helio dos Santos, 30, rows a boat as he prepares to fish in Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 23, 2022. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli Men ride horses in the sea at Quilombo Bananeiras, Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 24, 2022. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli Marizelha Carlos Lopes, 52, who is a local fisherwoman and environmental activist, poses for a photo at Quilombo Bananeiras, Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 22, 2022. Lopes' life, like that of many women living on Ilha da Mare, centers around the sea: she collects shellfish at dawn, shucks clams, and cracks crabs for meat that she feeds her family. "Being part of the census is a strategy for us, a strategy for resistance and change," she said. "One of our objectives is to escape an intentional invisibility." REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli Helio dos Santos (L), 30, and Uine Lopes, 26, pull a fishing net into a boat, near Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 23, 2022. Lopes said his younger generation of islanders are increasingly aware of the common cause they have with other minorities and marginalized communities in Brazil. "We need to be aware, to vote for as many Black people as possible who are committed to the fight, who have specific visions for Indigenous communities, quilombolas, fishermen, riverside residents and so many other communities that experience a lack of state support," he said. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli A general view of the Praia Grande, Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil, August 17, 2022. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli Ionice dos Santos, 65, dances at the Nego Fugido House at Quilombo Acupe, Santo Amaro, Bahia State, Brazil August 21, 2022. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli Vilma do Nascimento Menezes Lopes, 70, carries jambo fruit after harvesting them from the tree at her backyard at Quilombo Bananeiras, Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 18, 2022. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli Marizelha Carlos Lopes, 52, who is a local fisherwoman and environmental activist, laughs as she talks to a friend (not pictured) at Quilombo Bananeiras, Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 18, 2022. Lopes' life, like that of many women living on Ilha da Mare, centers around the sea: she collects shellfish at dawn, shucks clams, and cracks crabs for meat that she feeds her family. "Being part of the census is a strategy for us, a strategy for resistance and change," she said. "One of our objectives is to escape an intentional invisibility." REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli A sticker showing Brazil's former President and current presidential candidate Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva, and one reading "Who ordered the killing of Marielle?" are seen in Eliete Paraguassu's living room, at Quilombo Porto dos Cavalos, Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 21, 2022. Paraguassu is the first woman from the island campaigning for a spot in the Bahia state legislature ? one of a record number of Black candidates running for state and federal office in Brazil in the October 2022 elections. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli Marizelha Carlos Lopes, 52, who is a local fisherwoman and environmental activist, takes the meat off a siri at her mother's house at Quilombo Bananeiras, Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 18, 2022. Lopes' life, like that of many women living on Ilha da Mare, centers around the sea: she collects shellfish at dawn, shucks clams, and cracks crabs for meat that she feeds her family. "Being part of the census is a strategy for us, a strategy for resistance and change," she said. "One of our objectives is to escape an intentional invisibility." REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli Shellfish gatherer Noemia Farias Pedro, 48, washes recently collected shellfish near Ilha da Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 24, 2022. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli Census taker Aissa Freitas, 22, walks on a pier with her son, Luiz Miguel, 2, at Quilombo Praia Grande, Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 17, 2022. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli Fish lay in a boat at Quilombo Bananeiras, in Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia state, Brazil, August 23, 2022. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli Eliete Paraguassu, 42, who is running for state deputy in Bahia, and her friends stand as they wait for the rain to stop in front of a bar before a campaign activity, at Quilombo Porto dos Cavalo, Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 21, 2022. Paraguassu is the first woman from the island campaigning for a spot in the Bahia state legislature ? one of a record number of Black candidates running for state and federal office in Brazil in the October 2022 elections. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli Shellfish gatherer Joselia Farias Pedro, 57, holds a siri after catching it near Ilha da Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 24, 2022. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli Uine Lopes, 26, shows a tattoo of his grandfather fishing on his left forearm, at Quilombo Bananeiras, Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 18, 2022. Lopes said his younger generation of islanders are increasingly aware of the common cause they have with other minorities and marginalized communities in Brazil. “We need to be aware, to vote for as many Black people as possible who are committed to the fight, who have specific visions for Indigenous communities, quilombolas, fishermen, riverside residents and so many other communities that experience a lack of state support,” he said. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli People walk towards boats at Quilombo Bananeiras in Ilha de Mare, Salvador, Bahia State, Brazil August 23, 2022. Picture taken with a drone. REUTERS/Amanda Perobelli
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