Bialowieza, Europe's last primeval forest – in pictures

Dead wood is the key to life in the primeval Bialowieza Forest. Here, in the strictly protected zone of the national park, there is almost as much dead wood as live wood, and half of the 12,000 species live directly from decaying logs Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

There are 1,500 species of fungus in the Bialowieza forest, slowly digesting falling trees, such Fomes fomentarius (commonly known as tinder fungus, hoof fungus, tinder polypore or ice man fungus) Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

The trees in the protected zone of the Bialowieza forest grow much taller and more slenderly than in managed forests, as they compete for sunlight. Species include oak, lime, spruce and alder Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

This oak – over 6m in trunk circumference – died in 2005 and is one of the giants of the Polish part of the Bialowieza forest. Two thirds of the forest lies over the border in Belarus, where ecologists fear protection is lower Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

Dead wood – here a giant lime (Tilia cordata) – supports thousands of insects, and in turn many birds. Some logs take 40 years to be consumed. In managed forests, dead wood is often removed Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

Janusz Korbel, an independent ecologist who lives in Bialowieza, argues that human intervention in the forest - even if well-intentioned - destroys its unique primeval nature. "The forest is 7,000 years old," he says, and doesn't need human help Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

The pure air of the forest allows many lichen to flourish, such as this Evernia (a bushy lichen) Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

Eight species of woodpecker inhabit the forest and, with many other birds including eagles and owls, attract thousands of birdwatchers each year. But outside the national park, as in this image, the felling of trees by foresters has contributed to a decline in some woodpecker numbers Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

Beavers makes dams that recraft the local environment every six to seven years. Other mammals include wolves, lynx, moose, boar and deer Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

Tomasz Kaminski, of the Mammal Research Institute in Bialowieza, tracks wild European bison using radio and GPS collars. The forest hosts the largest free-living herd in the world, over 470 animals Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

The wild bison of Bialowieza went extinct in 1919 after the great war had destroyed centuries of protection from Polish kings and Russian tsars. The herd was re-established from animals previously sent abroad as royal gifts Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

The bison are fed in the harsh winter but also culled by national park officials. Scientists argue the time has now come to allow them to live entirely naturally, with death by natural causes keeping the population healthy Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

A bison feeding station at a clearing in the Bialowieza forest, outside the national park. Scientists are debating whether the bison originally lived in open ground and were driven into the forest thousands of years ago by human hunting Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

Animal teeth marks on a tree trunk, from possibly a bison or wild boar. Foresters argue that the bison herd has to be controlled to protect trees Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

Hunting for deer and wild boar is permitted outside the national park, from towers such as this one. The open space has been created by felling trees Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

This spruce has been attacked by the bark beetle (Ips typographus). The beetle can kill many trees and is feared by foresters. But ecologists say the beetle is part of a complex ecosystem, killing weaker trees and providing food for birds Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

This larvae of the rare beetle Cucujus Cinnaberinus eats dead wood and is protected under the EU's habitat directive. It was found in a log pile destined to be burned as fuel. But after ecologists notified officials, should be moved back into the forest to rot naturally Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

While 16% of the forest has national park protection, logging is permitted in other areas, such as here, near Sorocza Nozka village. Campaigners do not object to the cutting of former plantations but argue foresters should not replant afterwards, but instead let the natural forest reclaim the land Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

The wood taken from the Bialowieza forest is used for local heating and building, as well as paper and MDF manufacturing. A small amount of logging is sustainable, say ecologists, but only if the more natural parts of the forest outside the national park are better protected than now Photograph: David Levene/Guardian

Campaigners want the whole Bialowieza forest under national park protection. Foresters do not. The environment minister wants to extend the national park, but says he has to overcome the opposition of both local people and the powerful forestry service Photograph: David Levene/Guardian