A tailored garment reminiscent of both Noughties girl-band grunge and Swinging Sixties bohemia, waistcoats are firmly back on the fashion agenda.
It’s a style that is almost synonymous with Kate Moss and has a way of exuding self-confidence and sophistication - perhaps that’s the reason why its allure among the fashion’s glitterati remains steadfast.
Decreed as a part of the Englishman’s correct dress code by King Charles II in October 1666, the button-down vests were traditionally considered a menswear layer. The impeccably-tailored pieces streamlined the figure and completed three-piece suits during the 20th century. The figure-sculpting designs became status pieces adorned by court members and English travellers who borrowed more lavish silhouettes from Indian and Persian cultures.
In this sense, the waistcoat has always held high regard in British royalty, be it fashion or the actual monarchy. Yet the 1800s saw the decline of waistcoats as social symbols. Anti-aristocratic feelings following the French Revolution of 1789 influenced the frivolity of European dress codes. The waistcoat soon adopted a simpler, less ostentatious style, and this has generally remained the case ever since.
Jet black, charcoal grey and muted colourways tend to make up the majority of waistcoat offerings on the market today. The commercial, easy-wear palettes of the garment contribute to its ubiquity on the high street. A waistcoat can be worn as it is in summer or layered over a white tee in winter, proving it to be the epitome of versatility.
It comes as little surprise that the items have been snapped up by champions of minimalist ‘Quiet Luxury’. Sofia Richie Grainge, Gal Gadot and Sienna Miller are fans of the tailored piece, as are the Hadid sisters, Dua Lipa and Zendaya. The aforementioned all eschewed loud palettes in favour of the coolly elegant, pared-back piece.
On the runway, waistcoats retained this sense of simplicity. Mugler, Yohji Yamamoto, Celine, Coperni and Emporio Armani adopted the David Bowie-approved silhouettes into their streamlined collections, in turn reinforcing its modest persona.
However, as reliable as they may be, waistcoats are far from boring. Their position as steampunk staples and Indie Sleeze must-haves (thank you Avril Lavigne) made sure of this. Alternative Gen Z stars such as Caroline Polachek, Boy Genius and Holly Humberstone continue this rich legacy today.
You really can never underestimate the power of an impeccably tailored waistcoat.
Browse the best of them to add to your trans-seasonal wardrobe and shop the edit below.
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The Frankie Shop Maesa Asymmetric Woven Vest
Head to The Frankie Shop if you’re on the hunt for true cool-girl staples. The cult brand’s asymmetrical woven waistcoat offers up the perfect blend of contemporary and classic sentiment. Featuring a military khaki hue and neat tailoring, this is a layer to wear all year round.
Buy now £171.60, Net-A-Porter
Agolde Heller Recycled Denim Vest
Denim enthusiasts will be well-acquainted with Agolde’s cutting-edge designs. The brand, which pioneers regenerative cotton farming, is the proud source of these Y2K denim waistcoats crafted from recycled materials. The Heller style showcases a curved seam and slimline shape for form-sculpting magic.
Buy now £280.00, Net-A-Porter
Loulou Iba Cotton Vest
Chocolate colourways are here to stay, a fact Loulou already knows. The brand’s cotton and linen blend staple is minimally designed with sleek welt pockets for a pop of detail. Adorn yourself in some subtle gold jewels for maximum outfit impact.
Buy now £190.00, Net-A-Porter
Mango Suit Waistcoat
A waistcoat that's as classic as they come, you can’t go wrong with Mango’s suit-ready garment which features a rich shade of midnight black and a traditional V-neck. Pair yours with coordinating trousers and boots for an elevated office ensemble.
Buy now £45.99, Mango
Waimari + NET SUSTAIN Ariel Vest
Fulfil your fairytale dreams with a helping hand from Waimari. The label’s broderie anglaise waistcoat is the most romantic choice for sun-soaked soirees abroad and summer days spent in the park. The divinely petty piece is handmade at a family-run factory in Barranquilla, Colombia by local artisans.
Buy now £215.00, Net-A-Porter
Ralph Lauren Embroidered Striped Vest
Coming in hot on the pricier end of the scale, Ralph Lauren’s embroidered vest oozes bohemian flair. The design pays homage to vintage textiles with its sumptuous range of yarns, silk and linen.
Buy now £830.00, Net-A-Porter
Jigsaw Cotton Blend Waistcoat
Over the years, we have seen the adoption of waistcoats into knitwear. Jigsaw’s luxurious knitted number featuring an ebony hue and button-down fastening is in equal parts snug and sophisticated. Team yours with some faded blue boyfriend jeans and boots for prime coffee morning attire.
Buy now £99.00, Jigsaw
Whistles Joanna Denim Waistcoat
Flood your wardrobe with Noughties nostalgia. The Whistles Joanna Denim Waistcoat looks as if it has been plucked from Britney Spears’ personal archive. A dark-wash denim exterior, back belted detailing and pocketed front harken back to the early 2000s when double denim reigned supreme.
Buy now £109.00, Whistles
Arch4 + NET SUSTAIN Linda Cashmere Vest
Arch4’s apple green vest may be more than you were hoping to spend, but hear us out. The cosy piece is finely knitted from warming cashmere and offset by a shimmering sprinkle of pearlescent buttons. Crafted from considered materials, this is a timeless addition to your forever clothing collection.
Buy now £430.00, Net-A-Porter
& Other Stories Single-Breasted Waistcoat
Best for: post-work dates
Stuck in the office before a date? Dress for both occasions with some impeccable tailoring. Layer this waistcoat over a plain white baby tee and under a coordinating black blazer. Top it off with some chunky gold jewels.
Buy now £75.00, & Other Stories
