You don’t need to stay up to date with the latest buzz in beauty ingredients to notice the meteoric rise in acid-based skincare.
There’s a new generation of products that have been brought to market to coincide with our ever-growing knowledge and interest in what details each and every ingredient list. The emerging skintellectuals have led to transparency in the industry where skin-damaging components that dominated the pre-active offering have been pushed aside in favour of technical, efficacious and science-led line-ups with acids at the heart.
From hyaluronic to azelaic acid, it can feel like there’s a hi-tech name to know each week, which makes it daunting to know where to start. But if you’re just beginning to up the ante of your skincare routine, there is one powerhouse acid you need to have on your radar.
Mandelic acid should be your entry point into the world of chemical exfoliants. The gentler AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) is derived from bitter almonds and takes a less irritating approach to shifting dead skin.
The multitasking ingredient accelerates cell turnover, improves the appearance of hyperpigmentation and helps to unclog pores.
We consulted Dr Kemi Fabusiwa (@dr.fab), junior doctor and skincare expert for the INKEY List to decode mandelic acid.
What does mandelic acid do?
“Mandelic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid which can be found in any different types of products such as serums, blemish-treatments and peels. It increases cellular turnover by removing the upper layer of dead and dying skin cells, which allows your younger healthier cells to come to the surface. Mandelic acid is larger in molecular size than other AHAs like glycolic acid, which means that it can exfoliate the skin without penetrating too deep. This makes mandelic acid a great option for those in need of gentle exfoliation.”
What should you use mandelic acid for?
“Alpha hydroxy acids such as mandelic acid are able to exfoliate the skin and remove older skin cells. Due to this, they can help to exfoliate old skin cells that are congesting the pores which makes it great for breakouts and acne. But it can also help to remove areas of hyperpigmented skin for those wanting a more even skin tone.”
What skin type does mandelic acid work well for?
“Mandelic acid is a universal ingredient that can work well for individuals with oily or dry skin. Due to its large molecular size, it is also suitable for individuals with hypersensitive skin types.”
What ingredients does mandelic acid work well with?
“Mandelic acid works nicely in conjunction with ingredients like niacinamide and salicylic acid. It is important to always look out for signs of inflammation (redness, swelling, warmth, irritation) when combining actives. But it has a nice synergistic effect with other anti-acne ingredients.”
What type of products does mandelic acid work best in?
“Mandelic acid is an exfoliating acid, which means that it works nicely in serums, skin peels and blemish treatments. It can also be left on overnight in some formulations.”
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The INKEY List Mandelic Acid Treatment
Stripping back long ingredient lists to include just the essentials, The INKEY List puts mandelic acid front and centre in this gentle but potent treatment. It has been created to reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and acne scarring using the winning combination of mandelic acid and retinol. The latter is included in the small percentage of 0.1 to ensure that it won’t cause irritation but instead is designed to smooth out skin with continual use.
The texture is extremely lightweight and due to the addition of the vitamin A derivative, it also has a sebum regulating and fine line-busting effect. Apply to cleansed skin and follow with moisturiser.
Buy now £9.99, Cult Beauty
The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% + HA
When breakouts leave behind an unwanted sourvenir, call in mandelic acid to lighten, smooth and kiss goodbye to the scarring remnants. This topical treatment from The Ordinary gets to work offering a gentle exfoliation.
In this formula, mandelic acid combines with glycolic to take a slow but steady approach that ensures it can be tolerated by all skin types. There’s also HA (aka hyaluronic acid) to hydrate and plump. The lightweight texture is quickly absorbed and leaves a healthy glow.
Buy now £6.90, Space NK
Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigmentation Corrector Serum
This serum from Allies of Skin is best applied at night and left to work its magic as you slumber. It is targeted specifically to treat stubborn hyperpigmentation, large pores, breakouts, and uneven texture, turning your concerns on their head to leave you with luminous glass-skin.
As you sleep, it strengthens skin’s natural barrier through the combination of mandelic acid with other powerhouse ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, bakuchiol, peptides and organic rosehip. These work in tandem to achieve noticeable improvements in the skin - evening out texture, firming, boosting elasticity and calming redness. A little goes a long way. Use nightly.
Buy now £89.00, Space NK
Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 25% AHA + 2% BHA Exfoliant Peel
Tackling dullness, uneven tone and textured skin in one fell swoop, Paula’s Choice has launched this combination of acids. The brand is beloved for its Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant and this follows in the same vein but as well as blemish-busting, it adds skin smoothing, brightening and fine line fighting to its list of accomplishments. This differs from some of the other formulas on this list as it’s a rinse-off peel that is designed to be used once a week.
In just 10 minutes, salicylic acid (BHA) unclogs pores, while the cocktail of AHAs (glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, tartaric acid and malic acid) provide the resurfacing. Throw in the calming effects of allantoin, butterfly pea flower extract and the likes and you get an impressive, effective treatment that is kind to the skin at the same.
Buy now £39.00, Paula’s Choice
Youth To The People Mandelic Acid + Superfood Unity Exfoliant
While the Youth To The People Exfoliant is smoothing and decongesting pores, it will also leave you with hydrated, supple and glowy skin. Powered by antioxidant-rich plant extracts, it’s a water-like liquid that includes mandelic acid within the formula to remove dead skin cells, and minimise the appearance of hyperpigmentation. There’s also spot-fighting salicylic acid and gluconolactone known for its hydrating effects. Even so, it can feel quite drying on the complexion so follow application with a nourishing moisturiser. Bonus points for the herbaceous fragrance.
Buy now £32.00, Cult Beauty
Glow Recipe Strawberry Smooth BHA+AHA Salicylic Serum
The Strawberry Smooth serum from K-beauty label Glow Recipe is a cult product for a reason. In order to achieve that coveted glass skin complexion - a trend that began in South Korea and has since gained global momentum - this formula is on hand to shift dull surface skin cells and leave you glowing from the outside-in.
This is achieved through a combination of BHA and AHA acids - the former of which is salicylic acid, while the latter is mandelic acid. It is fast acting and effective but fear not, there will be no downtime as thanks to hyaluronic acid, strawberry water, leaf extract, and enzymes, it hydrates at the same time. What’s more, it smells fruity, absorbs quickly and creates a smooth canvas for the makeup application that follows.
Buy now £36.00, Cult Beauty
Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Extra Strength Peel Pads
Whisk the dark marks away with a swipe of this wipe. The pad has been created by dermatologist led label Dr Dennis Gross to act as a professional-level treatment that you can achieve at home. As such, it isn’t as harsh to the skin as you will find in clinic and has been created so that it can be used on a daily basis if needed. The peel is made up of a two step process.
You begin with the first pad - infused with AHAs lactric, mandelic, glycolic and BHA salicylic - that you glide across the face in a circular motion, wait for it to dry and repeat with the pad labelled ‘two’ that spotlights retinol, reservatrol and ascrobic acid among more anti-ageing powerhouse ingredients. The peel pads will leave your complexion luminous with sun spots appearing much lighter, while uneven tone has been smoothed out.
Buy now £89.00, Space NK
VOTARY Radiance Reveal Mask
VOTARY harnesses the power of natural ingredients to pack your skin with all the nutrients that it deserves. Each of the products are created in small batches in the UK and hand-blended so they are kind to the planet as well as your complexion. The Radiance Reveal Mask does what it says on the tin.
Mandelic acid plays a key role within the formulation, placed alongside lactic to gently resurface the skin and result in a glowy look. Use twice a week - say Wednesday and Sunday for example - and you’ll notice the reduction in fine lines, the lightening of hyperpigmentation and even less frequent breakouts.
Buy now £55.00, Cult Beauty
